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Thanks!
Did anybody knows if there is any difference between M3 and Z4 RTAB? According to ECS both should fit e46, while FCF saying that they only will fit e36/e46 M3 as well as Z4. I used p/n 33326770817 in my search.
Thanks in advance.
AFAIK the M3's are similar in materials used such that they will last longer BUT do not have the caster change. The z4 ones may be a better design strength wise though which is why most including myself went with them.Quote:
Originally Posted by RUS_ZHP
He's asking about RTAB not LCAB?
They will fit your car. That's what I put in my RTA
Thanks for responding
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Go with Z4m for the RTAB. They are the new design and are stiffer material compared to the E46 M3 RTAB.Quote:
Originally Posted by RUS_ZHP
See links below
http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Product-.../DSC7102-L.jpg
http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Product-.../DSC7295-L.jpg
It happens, but can be polished out! I used Meguiar's 205, but it may need something a bit stronger in some areas.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dual
Before
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1568/2...90d773c2_c.jpgIMG_3370 by Danny Sawyer, on Flickr
After. This was just a quick 30 second test section. Better results could be had if you spent more time on it.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/2/1586/2...900041d5_c.jpgIMG_3372 by Danny Sawyer, on Flickr
Thanks Vas!
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Thanks, Danny. Frank W's post about "shadowline trim" (my car's sticker calls it 'high-gloss satin trim') led to a lot of material. A lot. It seems to be caused by clearcoat sealants in automatic carwashes.Quote:
Originally Posted by theothersawyer
In my personal experience over the past month or so, it can be removed right after washing, with a microfiber cloth and some patient pressure. (It may be that the presence of the wetted sealant helps dissolve the dried product when rubbed.)
Right now I'm texting Rejex polymer wax as a protective layer since I like to use the car wash occasionally and will definitely like it more when the snow starts. Rejex lasts, doesn't stick to rubber and is easy to work with.
Online the discussion generally involved which of many rubbing or cleaning compounds were best, and whether the stuff can hold up to abrasives. I doubt it, and since I'm able to clean things up as described above I'm not getting more aggressive. Yet.
When the cars were new, owners were getting all the trim replaced as a 'dealer courtesy': a process which involved replacing some windows as well. Of course the problem wasn't going to go away that easy...
Links pretty much at random from my travels-
ZHP Black Chrome - How do I clean?
Cleaning Shadowline trim
Shadow Line Window Trim - Restore DIY EASY
Need help with ZHP high gloss trim
Shadowline trim - what's it made of? which product to detail?
This is a product supposedly designed to fix the problem once and for all, but I have my doubts:
Black Oxidized Aluminum Kit
How does one know if it's time to do a pulley/belt and/or tensioner refresh? My car has around 106,000 miles now. Looking through the receipts, the serpentine belt was replaced 20,000 miles ago.
I took a brief peek under the hood. It seems to be running alright?
https://youtu.be/KNtHCt_homg