Thanks!
Thanks!
2006 6MT Coupe, Alpine White • Premium, Cold Weather and Xenon packages
MFactory 3.38 LSD • 27mm M3 bar • ECS strut brace • Koni FSD's
Other tweaks: see my profile
Did anybody knows if there is any difference between M3 and Z4 RTAB? According to ECS both should fit e46, while FCF saying that they only will fit e36/e46 M3 as well as Z4. I used p/n 33326770817 in my search.
Thanks in advance.
Current:
1988 BMW 325is
1996 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80 x3 Locked - Restoration/Project Thread on ih8mud.com
Sold:
"Scarlett" the 2005 BMW 330i ZHP 6MT - Project/Maintenance Thread
2011 BMW M3 E92 6MT - Info/Maintenance Thread
He's asking about RTAB not LCAB?
They will fit your car. That's what I put in my RTA
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
Thanks for responding
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Go with Z4m for the RTAB. They are the new design and are stiffer material compared to the E46 M3 RTAB.
See links below
http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Product-.../DSC7102-L.jpg
http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Product-.../DSC7295-L.jpg
His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |
Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |
It happens, but can be polished out! I used Meguiar's 205, but it may need something a bit stronger in some areas.
Before
IMG_3370 by Danny Sawyer, on Flickr
After. This was just a quick 30 second test section. Better results could be had if you spent more time on it.
IMG_3372 by Danny Sawyer, on Flickr
Thanks Vas!
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Thanks, Danny. Frank W's post about "shadowline trim" (my car's sticker calls it 'high-gloss satin trim') led to a lot of material. A lot. It seems to be caused by clearcoat sealants in automatic carwashes.
In my personal experience over the past month or so, it can be removed right after washing, with a microfiber cloth and some patient pressure. (It may be that the presence of the wetted sealant helps dissolve the dried product when rubbed.)
Right now I'm texting Rejex polymer wax as a protective layer since I like to use the car wash occasionally and will definitely like it more when the snow starts. Rejex lasts, doesn't stick to rubber and is easy to work with.
Online the discussion generally involved which of many rubbing or cleaning compounds were best, and whether the stuff can hold up to abrasives. I doubt it, and since I'm able to clean things up as described above I'm not getting more aggressive. Yet.
When the cars were new, owners were getting all the trim replaced as a 'dealer courtesy': a process which involved replacing some windows as well. Of course the problem wasn't going to go away that easy...
Links pretty much at random from my travels-
ZHP Black Chrome - How do I clean?
Cleaning Shadowline trim
Shadow Line Window Trim - Restore DIY EASY
Need help with ZHP high gloss trim
Shadowline trim - what's it made of? which product to detail?
This is a product supposedly designed to fix the problem once and for all, but I have my doubts:
Black Oxidized Aluminum Kit
2006 6MT Coupe, Alpine White • Premium, Cold Weather and Xenon packages
MFactory 3.38 LSD • 27mm M3 bar • ECS strut brace • Koni FSD's
Other tweaks: see my profile
How does one know if it's time to do a pulley/belt and/or tensioner refresh? My car has around 106,000 miles now. Looking through the receipts, the serpentine belt was replaced 20,000 miles ago.
I took a brief peek under the hood. It seems to be running alright?
https://youtu.be/KNtHCt_homg