Just went out and plugged the headlight washer pump, luckily found a small enough hose clamp in my junk drawer. All is good for now!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...50236409f0.jpg
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Just went out and plugged the headlight washer pump, luckily found a small enough hose clamp in my junk drawer. All is good for now!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...50236409f0.jpg
What did you put in it to close it off?
Looks like he pinched it off with a hose clamp. Just squished it perhaps.
"No flamesuit required"
I actually found a rubber plug type thing that slipped over the end of the washer pump nice and tightly. Hose clamp is just for added security but I'm not sure if it's really needed
Perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssparrow
"No flamesuit required"
I'm on the hunt for a :blinkrubber plug type thing
You guys are better off acquiring a non-headlight washer pump, IMO... that would guarantee you'll never have this problem again.
Not sure why you continued to experience leaking issues when we did yours initially BP. I have a similar setup on my ZHP and have no leaks :scratchinghead I don't think Sparrow will have issues with his solution based on the pic he provided. Looks good Sparrow! :thumbsupQuote:
Originally Posted by az3579
All I'm saying is that as long as the plumbing from the washer pump exists (plugged or not), it's a potential point of failure. It's a matter of time before the hose coming from the pump develops a crack or leaks. It's not a permanent solution.Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
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Point taken but if I choose to someday go back to OE configuration regarding headlight washers, my way would make going back much easier....that's all I'm sayin'.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Yeah that's definitely just temporary. I'd like to eventually get a new tank without headlight washers and new headlight trim as well. For as much as I take my headlights out, not having headlight washers would make it SO much easier
Here's a totally random question. Seems I get tailgated a lot in this car. Am I the only one noticing this? Is it only down to the way the rear view mirror works?
I get a lot of that too but I always figured it was just asshole Chicago drivers or people snapping pix of my plates
GoingHAM mobile
Now I get it too. It really gets annoying as hell. [emoji35]
Whats a reasonable offer to pay for used shadowline trim? Im going to grab some off a zhp part out close to me. I don't want to low ball the seller nor do I want to over pay.
I guess it depends on the condition, etc. As you know it's very expensive new. $150-300 maybe?
Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.
Ecs.com has it brand new for $215. I had originaly offered him $300 but I think im gonna try and get him down to $150. Just gotta find a DIY video now or write up...
^$215 for all of it on both sides?
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215 per side. That's lower than what it used to be I believeQuote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
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The thing is, I don't get tailgated when I drive my truck. Only when I drive the zhp. I'm thinking it's because it's low and other drivers can easily see over the top from behind. My truck is pretty tall. There's no seeing over that.Quote:
Originally Posted by UdubBadger
Probably. I don't think I notice less tailgating in my Pilot... Just no photos
GoingHAM mobile
For those of you who tinted your cars, what tint do you have and how do you like it? I had SunTek Carbon on my last car for 18 months and had no problems but I'm just trying to see if I should venture to another brand/line with my ZHP.
There's a place in town that does work for local Audi and BMW dealerships and they use either SunTek Carbon for $200 or SunTek CXP (SunTek's top of the line I think) for $250, which seems reasonable. They deal with the dot matrix by adding vinyl 2-3 weeks after the initial tint has cured.
Thoughts?
Brands are brands, just make sure you get ceramic
GoingHAM mobile
Deos anyone have any tips for getting these chips and small dent fixed?
http://i.imgur.com/TwyzWvx.jpg?2
Is there a good kit or DIY that would fix this? Would it be expensive to get it fixed by a pro? Its not that large but the small dent is pretty annoying and the chips dont help it.
I would ask a PDR shop about the dent, it should be cheap because it's small. I hear Dr ColorChip can fix the chips, you get the kit and DIY.
+1 on PDR
PDR + Dr. Colorchip
"No flamesuit required"
PDR might even have touchup for it if they specialize in BMWs. I know my guys uses to do that. Dent Wizard.
Looking to buy FCABs, and will most likely get Lemforder as they appear to be the OE supplier and I would like to stick with the OE ride. I believe I read somewhere on here that the Meyles are of poor quality currently...
So, when I plug in part number 31126783376 to a BMW parts search engine I gets lots of results, with RockAuto being most cost effective by a decent margin for the Lemforder brand (~$65 with a discount). They appear to be ~$91 at ECS. I have never ordered from RockAuto, and when you click on the part number (1797801) it doesn't show that they fit our cars per RockAuto. However, it is directly linked to the BMW part number above.
Could someone advise whether these are indeed the correct FCABs or not? I tried to look at the Lemforder catalog, and 1797801 appears to be correct, but thought I would check here to make sure. Thanks.
Another good option is factory Z4M control arm bushings.Quote:
Originally Posted by ClimRox
I had Meyle on my car for one year before they shit the bed. Both the control arms and bushings failed.Quote:
Originally Posted by ClimRox
If you want Genuine OE parts, you'd be paying a lot more than $65. That is definitely an aftermarket part.Quote:
So, when I plug in part number 31126783376 to a BMW parts search engine I gets lots of results, with RockAuto being most cost effective by a decent margin for the Lemforder brand (~$65 with a discount). They appear to be ~$91 at ECS. I have never ordered from RockAuto, and when you click on the part number (1797801) it doesn't show that they fit our cars per RockAuto. However, it is directly linked to the BMW part number above.
Could someone advise whether these are indeed the correct FCABs or not? I tried to look at the Lemforder catalog, and 1797801 appears to be correct, but thought I would check here to make sure. Thanks.
Do yourself a favor and download the BMW Part Number Price Comparison tool (BMW PNPC) available here:
http://www.bmwpnpc.com
Use this tool to search all the online dealers for the genuine BMW part. You won't regret it.
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+1 on Z4M. That's what I have. No change in ride quality.
The tires on my car were changed by the previous owner about 40k miles and 8 years ago (General Exclaim UHP) and they have plenty of tread still left... Is it advisable to keep using them till the tread wears out or should I change the tires based on their age?
8 years ago is kinda old. I think 10 years is the default for changing no mater what.
I guess you don't drive the car too hard?
I have only had the car for about 6 months now, I do drive the car quite hard, but I guess previous owner did not...:)Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Probably safe to just wear them out then :)
BP, that looks amazing! Thanks for the heads-up!Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Does anybody know what the turn signal bulb type is for the rear tails? I've clear bulbs in there and I'm looking for some "stealth" Amber bulbs to get legal.
Has anybody ever been pulled over for not having the right color turn signals? These days you'd think the police would be happy you're even using the signal!
1156/7506.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
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