That's a weird a/c issue
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That's a weird a/c issue
@san: No idea. I've read that it your AC starts only blowing cold in your middle vents but your side vents are hot, it means you're running low on refrigerant and the system needs to be recharged. Dunno if it's the same case here.
Ya I have heard that too... But the issue is only with the vents at the footwell... Weird I know But the diy I posted seem to talk about the exact same issue... I guess il have to try and see...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
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Any luck, San?
For anyone who has refreshed their lower grille by spray painting it, was there a particular paint you used that you liked?
I haven't tried fixing it yet... Since the weather is getting colder it doesn't really bother me that much... I know I'm just being very lazy... This weekend I will be installing the konis at Dave's (just_george) place, so will tackle the AC issue probably early next month...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
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Fair enough, I'm sort of in the same boat. I don't think my AC issue is 100% fixed but it works well enough, and now that I'm headed into the fall there won't bee too much need to fix it.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
You'll love the Konis. I've had mine in for a couple of weeks now and they're great. I set them to 3/4 turn from soft on all corners and it rides much better than my old shocks/struts. Good luck.
Thanks! I think I will go with the same 3/4 turn from soft...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
What is wrong with ur AC??
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It just hisses when I turn it on, suggesting either my compressor is failing or I'm low on refrigerant. I tried filling it a couple months ago and it went away but now it's back so...who knows. Probably have it assessed professionally next spring.
Hmmm... Mine hisses too, since I bought it... But the AC blows ice cold, except for he recent issue... Now you have me thinking if I have another issue... Haha...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
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Maybe I need to go softer. Mine has a bit of a bone-jarring effect when I hit a dip, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
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What did you set yours to? Right now mine are stiff but not spine-crushingly so. They still translate bumps into the cabin but they aren't a nuisance, and definitely a tad more comfortable than the OE shocks/struts I replaced.
I don't recall offhand and would have to check the fronts. I did loosen them up a couple of notches recently and it helped. I with the rears could be set easier...Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
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Anyone have a front (right if it matters) black speaker grille (mid bass)?
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Found one on eBay. It's on the way.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
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Hard shutter in the steering wheel yesterday at Road America. First session was good, second session I made it 2 laps before the issue started, right after a really hard brake down from about 150-60ish.
I was on Cool Carbons which aren't "track pads" but have similar specs as a Hawk HP+ pad (hybrid) from what I researched so I doubt I cooked them. Brakes have never done that before. System was just bled - would some air in the system possibly cause that? Stuck piston? The Brembos were rebuilt this April.
Or could this be more suspension related?
Went out again for 3rd session and same thing so I hung it up for the day and drove home. Car was fine on the highway.
Thanks
What about the rotors?
Feel any vibration in the brake pedal?
A bit, not as bad as in the wheel, but the rotors looked ok upon inspection and if they were warped that'd be fucked up cuz theyre new BMW ZCP ones from April/May. Those aren't gonna warp that quickly/easily. I should probably have them turned anyway just in case but somehow I don't think that's the issue or else I'd really feel it at highway speeds which I don't.
Quote:
Originally Posted by UdubBadger
That class is pad isn't designed for repeated 150-60 stops... that is considered heavy pad usage. While I doubt that is what is causing your shuddering issue, I'm just saying don't be surprised if your brakes cook easily with those pads at those speeds. You may want to invest in some race pads for that kind of speed.
Did you have your bushings inspected? Does it happen at all stages of the brake pedal (light pressure, medium, and heavy pressures) or just a certain stage? Does turning while braking make a difference in the shuddering?
It is not recommended to "turn" BMW rotors, BTW. I'm not sure of the exact science behind it but I've seen/heard it from numerous sources.
If I had to take a guess, I'd say there's uneven pad deposits on one or both rotors. Did you properly bed them in prior to going to the track?
Yeah I've heard guys had decent days on track with them. This happened 2nd session out. I had DT60s but only front so I was advised to not use them.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Bushings have all been replaced in this car within 2 yrs and less than 20k. It was only on the hard braking from what I recall. Like I said car drove fine on way home a few hours later. This morning they felt a little weak. We looked for pad deposits but didn't see much of anything and instructor did some hot laps to try and see if they could clear them. I bedded the pads when new. If they weren't then, they are now right? Lol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UdubBadger
Weird. I've got nothin... :dunno
Lol. Well shit
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Holy fog! Got the car in the spring so this is my first fall with it and foggy situations and man, it fogs up quick! it had only been a few minutes of starting the car when i took this pic and could not believe how foggy it was. I had the defogger going and the windshield was ok but it had not gotten to work on the side windows yet.
I noticed when i ran the defogger that regardless of what temp i gave it the air coming out was hot. Is this the way it's supposed to be? found that odd. if i switched out of defogger and into regular air flow the air temp would go to whatever i had set it at.
Also, in the air vents above the radio there's a wheel you spin to make it warmer/cooler. What is the point of this when you have the temp arrows to set the temperature? seems redundant, no?
Attachment 21894
This is normal behavior.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
The wheel is what you should actually use to adjust the temperature you want. The Auto function ensures the temp stays at whatever temperature you specify inside the cabin, which is why it'll blow different temperature air out of different vents to regulate that temperature. I leave mine at 72 degrees all the time; I never touch the temperature adjustment buttons. I control whether I want hot or cool with the slider in between the vents.Quote:
Also, in the air vents above the radio there's a wheel you spin to make it warmer/cooler. What is the point of this when you have the temp arrows to set the temperature? seems redundant, no?
Mine was very foggy today too. Ambient temp always about 47* I'm a 69-71*guy. Mostly 69. I have to hit the recirculate every time as mine won't stick on. I also adjust he red/blue dash dial some when I don't want cold air blowing in my face in the winter, etc.
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That is some crazy fog. I'd check for water leaks somewhere in your car that cause water to accumulate. You shouldn't be getting that much fog under normal circumstances.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
So you think it was just the pads? Could it have been the brake fluid?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
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If you didn't feel anything through the pedal, I doubt it was fluid rotor or pad related.
Any possibility you went off the race Lin and picked up big chunks of tire?
Sorry man, I haven't a clue at this point. I don't think it's the pads because you'd feel the shuddering through the brake pedal if that was the case. If it was the fluid, then your brakes would have felt mushy, like they have been faded.Quote:
Originally Posted by UdubBadger
I don't believe that's the case. Since the shuddering only happens when braking, that means it's not a tire balancing issue. A tire balancing issue from having picked up extra rubber that stuck to the rim (or tire) would have resulted in the tires shuddering all the time at speed, not just when braking.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Right. So what the fuck causes shuttering upon hard braking but no other time????
Why me?
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I would still have it looked at by iND (or wherever else you may take it). We can speculate all we want, but unfortunately that isn't going to diagnose the issue properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by UdubBadger
That's what I asked myself yesterday. :shiftyQuote:
Why me?
Yeah that's what's going to happen
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So let me ask you this cuz I had a theory.
When you brake, the car shifts weight onto the front wheels/suspension. What if the car was rubbing slightly upon the hard braking, would that cause a shutter in the steering wheel. I ask because it looks like the fronts have a very small amount of marks from rubbing about a 1/4" wide path at the top of the sidewall
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Not likely, plus you would hear it. My back rubs a bit and every time it makes quite a noise.
I don't think that would cause shuddering. If anything, you'd smell tire pretty badly if it was rubbing that that much. Also, rubbing that bad would have been caught by iND, and I don't think the car would have been drivable.Quote:
Originally Posted by UdubBadger
The rubbing only would happen on the really hard neck jerking deceleration though, stiff suspension normally but under a lot of g force of a hard brake it would bring the front end down so much it might touch a bit. IND wouldn't have looked for that, it was just a visual inspection.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
It did smell a touch funny at times but I figured it was just brake smells.
Ugh...
The world may never know
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Brakes and tires have different smells. Are you sure it was tires you were smelling and not brakes? I imagine the brakes would definitely be smelly after multiple 150-60 slowdowns.
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No idea. Oh well. Guess next time I'll raise up the suspension a touch and see if he same issue returns on track pads.
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This isn't exactly a question, but this article leads me to believe there is some nonsense going on.
ARTICLE HERE
This topic has been beaten to death, but I'm having a hard time believing that this dudes car read 228whp on the dyno. Looks like he threw on Style 135's on a regular 330ci too.
I've driven modified ZHP's before (exhaust, shark, short shifter) and they really didn't feel much faster than mine did.
8hp at the peak isn't unusual. What's the issue?