There is such a thing as dyno error. If you take that car to a different dyno elsewhere, or maybe even the same type of dyno at a different location, you'll get a different reading.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
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There is such a thing as dyno error. If you take that car to a different dyno elsewhere, or maybe even the same type of dyno at a different location, you'll get a different reading.Quote:
Originally Posted by Newjack
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Yea the key is to always use the same dyno when making comparisons.
And not this dyno:
https://www.facebook.com/districtspe...6638255720068/
Randomly decided to check the coolant level today and this is what i saw. From the looks of it, it appears to be low, correct? the car is cold (hasn't moved this weekend) and on a flat surface
What type of coolant do i get and what do i mix it with, if anything? if you look inside the tip of the stick is about 1/4 in from the top of the container.
Attachment 21961Attachment 21962
Prestone sells a 50/50 pre diluted antifreeze/coolant mix. They say it's good for all makes, all models. I use it for the Saab. For top off purposes, it should be fine for your car.
Great, thx. I'll hit the car store in a bit and get some. Sux it went down so much. The car had a coolant flush only a couple of years ago and the car sat a lot with the previous owner (i think she put 5-7K in the last 2yrs of ownership) and i've put 3K in the 7mths i've had it. Looks like there's a leak somewhere though the garage floor is clean.
The system is not full but not fully empty as well.
I check mine ever 4-8 weeks and it does go down. The cap is designed to vent extra pressure, so it'll slowly go down as some is lost from the vent.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
I use coolant from BMW. Some argue to ONLY use that kind, but I dunno. I'm only 20 min from a stealership, so it's easy to get.
I use BMW mixed to 50/50. Prestone may work fine in a pinch.
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I use OE bmw coolant. But like I said the system is not empty just a bit low. It does vent so if you fill it up to the top, it will go down eventually
I use BMW coolant.
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When I did my coolant flush I did it with a 50/50 mix of OEM BMW coolant and distilled water. I tend to top off the expansion tank with just distilled water whenever it is a bit low.
ok ok ok, you guys convinced me. Just went to the dealership and got some OEM coolant :) now need to go to Walmart and get me a measuring container so i can do the proper 50/50 mix
Grab the Mobil1 0w-40 too! I think there is still a rebate.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
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Isn't BMW coolant premixed?
nope, need to add water (preferably distilled).
Where is this deal, at the dealership? I'm considering that over BMW oil next oil change.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
You just need to go to the grocery store and buy 2x 1 gallon jugs of distilled water. Water the plants with one and then pour half the second into the first so you have both with equal amounts of water. Then add the coolant equally to both and you've got 2 jugs of 50/50 mixed coolant.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
Yeah right.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Good call Wes. ^
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actually i made things a little less easy by buying a quart instead. I have empty gallons of "regular" water at home, so i'll just pour the coolant in it then take the distilled water and fill the coolant container to get the 1 quart then pour it in the other gallon that has the coolant.Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmeyer
Ah I premixed mine so long ago I forgot lolQuote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
For those with a short shifter kit, specifically the UUC Evo3 kit, do you know what might cause a shifted-to-the-right position in neutral? See pictures and video clip below:
Looking front to back:
http://i.imgur.com/JA8TClZ.jpg
Looking from the side:
http://i.imgur.com/2S70YdO.jpg
Video: https://streamable.com/f4yx
Some background: A few weeks ago I had my UUC Evo3 short shift kit with UUC's double shear selector rod (DSSR) installed by my indy. When he got it back to me it was incredibly hard to shift into fifth. As it turns out, the DSSR was scraping against the carrier. UUC claimed it was an installation error but only after my mechanic measured the dimensions did UUC admit that it sent me the wrong shifter (the proper shifter is longer). They mailed me the correct one but I was out of town so a family member dropped it off at the mechanic and he installed it. Now it shifts nicely, but it has this off-center positioning you see above and neither myself nor the mechanic could manage to get the shifter knob to lock into place even though the neck seems to be the same dimensions as the OE shifter. As an added note, the new shifter had some plastic coming out between the adjustable upper section and the lower section and when my mechanic talked to UUC about it, they said to just cut it off. I'm beginning to wonder if UUC's quality control is slipping.
At any rate, if anyone has any insight that would be awesome. I'm getting quite annoyed with this minor nuisance.
From what I remember from other members, it don't really sit right in the middle
Just noticed your PM too. That's definitely not right. In neutral it doesn't sit directly in the center because it has to move 2 positions to the left and only one position to the right. But, it is supposed to sit straight up and down whereas yours leans to the right and that aint right.
Here's mine. EVO3 and DSSR sticking straight up in neutral. Attachment 21985
I appreciate the pics! It's definitely installed wrong. The angle of the notch for the shifter knob is facing the rear driver's side window and the passenger's front window, whereas in yours it is the opposite: from the driver's front window to the passenger's rear window. So UUC messed up by having the tamperproof screw on in the wrong side and the mechanic followed their directions causing the issue.
Yeah the shifter is 180 degrees off. You could put the shift knob on upside down :)
Hah, I thought about that. Now that I look at it though, even if I took it to the mechanic to turn it around, the notch at the top still wouldn't be correct. 180 degrees would mean the notch would still be aimed in the current and most importantly, incorrect direction. Or am I being a doofus?Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmeyer
It isn't your UUC kit. Your shifter bushings are worn. And you may have pink eye.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Lol. My Autosolutions SSK sits like dis.Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Lazlo
Sorry I'm not showing my bare knob.
Attachment 21998
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Tease.Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Haha I don't even know where to begin with those statements, or if any of them are serious? I doubt the bushings are worn since UUC provides new Delrin bushings, and I am very certain I don't have pink eye. Although...Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Lazlo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYXLKRNCVrw
It's okay, my imagination can fill in the rest :pQuote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
1. SeriousQuote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
2. Serious
3. Jury is still out
The UUC provides for new bushings (IIRC) but not all of them. The listing to the right, other than being conservative politically, is
likely due to a worn or broken 5th gear lockout pin. I would also see the doc about that potential conjunctivitis.
Hmm...I'm not clear on what the lockout pin does, why would a worn/broken lockout pin cause the rightward positioning or the rotational issue? I feel resistance both toward 1st/2nd and toward 5th/6th gear.
The thing is, it was fine before the SSK install ever took place. That part isn't touched during the process, so it's unlikely it broke during this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Lazlo
Two questions:
1. Would there be any wiring issues retrofitting the side mirrors from a 2004 E46 M3 to a 2005 330Ci?
2. Anyone have any idea how much it might cost to repaint said mirrors? The car I might pull them from is black, I'd need to repaint it Orient Blue.
I appreciate any and all help!
You need to swap mirror motors because you can't use the M3 motors. Getting them aligned can be a challenge.
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Is the rear subframe the same on all E46s? I have the chance to pick up a rear subframe from a 330i Auto. I would change the bushings on my time and then swap it into my MANUAL ZHP. Not sure it will swap right over.
I usually use bmw's (shell) 5w30 oil for my Zhp... Since the winter is about to start and I live in a place where it gets close to zero and negative temps, is it better if I go with Mobil 1 0w-40??
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I would wager that the 330xi and M3 might have a slightly different subframe, but across 330i transmissions they would have the same subframe. Someone else with more knowledge can confirm.Quote:
Originally Posted by 05Imola
How cold is it going to get where you live? I think 0W-40 oil will be better suited to colder climates because the oil will be less viscous than 5W-30 when you first start the car allowing the oil to circulate and lubricate the essential motor components more quickly. On the other end of the spectrum, 0W-40 will be slightly more viscous at normal operating temperatures than 5W-30 oil (the "30" part of that oil) but that shouldn't matter for our engines, people use both those oils with no issues as far as I know. Next oil change I'm moving from BMW's 5W-30 to Mobil's 0W-40.Quote:
Originally Posted by san