Your Imola paint looks to be in good condition too.
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Your Imola paint looks to be in good condition too.
lol I have a POS Jetta wagon in the garage. Does that count?
I had a hell of a time getting the other one out and took some time to really look at the cutout. I'm 90% sure that the bumper was replaced with a non-US-coupe part and someone went back and cut the openings for the reflectors by hand. This car is funny.
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Most of the front end has fresh paint #accidentbonus
GET OFF MY PINSTRIPE EH!?!
And I've barely seen Spenser since we got back from Canada. He's got this new girlfriend that he spends all of his time with. She's blue.
Drove the red car yesterday and got that yellow oil warning light after I got home. Popped the hood and prodded around with a flashlight and said lots of curse words.
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Some new pockets of oil by the OFHG and a lot more running down that side of the pan. Seems to be leaking just as much, if not more than before I replaced the gasket.
BOY DO I HOPE THAT HOUSING IS WARPED OR CRACKED
[cursing, muttering, pouting]
bummer.... i assume you noted which bolts went where, and were mindful of correct torque specs?
perhaps the new gasket popped out of the housing slightly and got pinched when you torqued it down? i always use a tiny bit of PFTE lube to hold the gasket in place before i put the housing in place.
I should have mentioned that I checked to make sure that it wasn't leaking from the VANOS line or the filter cap.
Bolt position was tracked and torqued down to gutentight, in stages, in a star pattern. I'll check them tonight as heat cycling the aluminum block/housing may have loosened up the fit. If they don't tighten down more, then I'll pull the housing and check the positioning of the gasket and flatness of the face. I wiped a bit of fresh oil on the gasket before install out of habit, but I'm reading that some people get better results with a completely dry gasket and mounting faces. Sounds painful to me!
There has been many a time I've said to myself WTF? When looking at BMW's low torque values but I learned my lesson with aluminum when I was into motorcycles... always torque to manufacturer's specs.
WE ABOUT DAT LIP LYFE
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I spent a few hours prepping and coating the new wheels with Optimum Gloss Coat yesterday and installed them today before a 200mi trip to Charleston.
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So far these new Coopers are bomb. They ride quiet, very smooth, and don't tramline a bit. Can't comment on grip yet, but they're for sure a great highway tire.
And a final pinstripe shot for Peter:
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Yo, I didn't even realize you had a pinstripe. Straight Al Capone up in this hizzy.
P.s. those rimz are dope, let me know when you need a back up hoodlum for your rap video. You know, the ones not doin' nothin outside the G5, straight stuntin' (these comments are only partially sarcastic and fo real your whip looks straight fire, son).
Can you cut oranges?
https://youtu.be/th_xIyL7bJQ
Church.
Weight was 23lb I think. The whole package ended up at 48lb.
135's that I pulled off we're 47lb for the front and 54lb for the rear.
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Were they 235/35?
235/40 bruh
Little taller sidewall with a bit of a stretch gives me that smooth ride and sidewall stability when cornering
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About 500 miles on the Coopers and they're excellent. I used to have to fight the car on the highway with how bad it tramlined and I thought for sure that it was bad bushings and/or shocks. Apparently it was just the worn PSS's that were on the front.
The car just chews through miles now and averaged a solid 32mpg at 78mph. Excited to see what it will do with non-leaking injectors.
This post was really just an excuse to share an oversaturated pic from the drive back:
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do you have any plans for a set of maybe 10mm spacers for the rears to push them out just a wee bit? if not they still look nice but from the pictures and angles, it looks like the rears could be pushed out just a tad and still not have rubbing with your current ride height. it's all personal taste though so i'm sure the way you have it right now is because its exactly how you wanted it to be.
Haha good spot! The tucked in rear track is definitely not how I wanted it to be. I didn't bother with spacers before the trip because I got the wheels on an hour before we left and didn't have time to test how it drove with spacers only in the rear. The smallest set that I have is 10mm and I know that there can sometimes be issues with vibrations and such when there is that big of a difference between front/rear.
I need to get it on the lift to check for oil leaks anyway, so it sounds like tonight would be a good time to throw the spacers on too.
I have 15 in the back and nothing up front right now and it's fine. Only vibrations I have are from out of balance fronts (which is why I took the 12.5s off up there). I miss the look but I'm not paying to road force balance until I decide if I'm keeping the 135s or not.
Looks like 10mm was on the money. Good looking out!
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So you're basically 9" ET32 at this point?
Nice! 15mm would have worked as well if yo had stretched tires but overall i think its a much better look now.
Yup
It'll be close! Hopefully I'll get a chance to plow into some corners this week to check. I'll bring a clipboard with me to explain to the officer that it's for science.
Oh I forgot to post this pic showing how wide the tread is on these 235's. Here's the loose tires stacked next to some 255's on 8.5w wheels. Definitely not 80mm difference there. More like 20-30.
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Yeah I'm not big on the mega stretch thing. These have just a bit of stretch for sidewall stability and I can still lay them face down [carefully].
Well overdue for an update to this train wreck.
I couldn't get a good gauge on the difference since the car was running kind of shitty with the leaky injectors, but after replacing those and doing some light hooning, I can honestly say that there is maybe an improvement overall power. Clear as mud?
I went back with a torque wrench and put the hurt on them suckers to the tune of like 20 ft lbs. The middle bolts were a little looser than the rest, so I gave the top four (where the gasket is) a little extra to be sure. I'm 90% sure it's not leaking anymore, but I may have a leak at the rear main seal. Still hard to tell.
No rubbing yet, but hooning has been light since the install. I will, without a doubt, be hitting the mountains at some point this weekend and seeing how these Coopers really perform.
This week's project was playing with LED bulbs for the front corners to match every other light on this car. Shame that BMW left those, but ya know... dollars.
So here's the little cheapo LEDs that I wanted to try. Had to flip the contact wires around but they fit fine in the limited space of the housing.
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And look how clean the corner lens is without that egg yolk!
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And they match the sidemarkers perfectly!
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But there's just one issue....
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THEY'RE WIMPY
I still wanted to test them out and spent a lot of time in PA Soft trying to adjust PWM values to keep them from tripping an error. No luck. Gonna find some brighter bulbs and keep playing with PA Soft before I go down the janky road of load resistors.
SAD
Ugh, I struggled with that same issue for the front turn signal bulbs. I have yet to find a solution. The ones I bought on eBay were bright but just too large/long (link to the post in my project thread). Let me know if you find a solution. I need to find LED bulbs for the front turn signals and bulbs for the reverse lights.
Keep us posted. I too am looking for amber LEDs for the front and rear but haven't found a suitable solution yet.
Ah I see what you mean. Looks like those were plenty bright and would be fine without the projector type lens on the end. Did you happen test them with just the turn signal input to check for hyperflash?
I
GOT
U
FAMMMMM
JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright Max 50W High Power 1156 1141 1073 7506 LED Bulbs ,Xenon White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MC6799K..._dOd8yb3HVSMG9
These is the bitties that I went with after testing a few others
They bright af