Blinker?
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Blinker?
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Since you said your headlights (I assume low beams) are fine, it could also be your high beam bulbs or your turn signals.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
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High beams are good. Blinkers... I saw blinking, but that could be from the quarter panel blinker, now that I think about it. I'll check that thx
Just tested all exterior light on the car. No issues; all bulbs are working.
Now what?
Check your bulb socket for your turn signal. Swap it with the other side and see if the problem follows.
Well crap. Coolant leak. Seems to be from expansion tank and expansion tank mounting plate connection. Replaced tank when I did cooling overhaul at 85k. Should I replace tank and mounting plate? Any suggestions Attachment 23543
I can pull the two apart pretty easily and fluid starts leaking. The heater return hose appears fine. It's just wet from above leak.
There is a small O-Ring that may have gotten dislodged or shifted in that hose connection that mates to the E-Tank?
I can pull the two apart pretty easily and fluid starts leaking. The heater return hose appears fine. It's just wet from above leak.[/QUOTE]
As far as I recall, the expansion tank is the one that has the 0-rings in them. I would pull the tank out and see what conditions those o-rings are in there.
[/QUOTE]Quote:
Originally Posted by trancenation
Thanks guys. Ended up getting a new ET and also went to local parts store and matched up the O rings that come in a new one with some replacements since you can't purchase the O rings individually without buying an ET(will return ET as I just needed it to size O rings). Replaced them and re filled the system cleaned everything up only to realize I had forgot to put the trans thermostat back in[emoji36]! So drained the system again and took all back apart and put back together. Filled and bled the system, cleaned all the coolant off. Will make sure all is leak free in the morning and see if my 5$ fix worked.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Swapped sides with the sockets. Error light didn't change sides.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
What's next?
There is something rattling in my driver door card and it is driving me INSANE. I had my indy pull the door card and they said they didn't find anything, but I hear it and it's getting worse it sounds like. Any idea what it could be? I'm going to pull the door card myself and look. There is nothing in the door pocket so that is out of the question.
Could be a lose wire. Not that its disconnected from the speaker but the wire runs a foot or so and might be flapping around. Some 3m double sided tape under it might help. Not sure what else. The card is pretty easy to remove following the DIY. The top part sounds bad when you pull it off but you aren't breaking anything (if you don't pull it away too far and jerk the door release. Or speaker wires).
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"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member
You drive a coupe, right? I have the same issue with my passenger door in my coupe and had the same issue in my other 3-series coupe. I find it's worse with cold weather, I assume due to parts shrinking ever so slightly, giving room for them to buzz around. Also, for me at least, it is located to the speaker grille. If I push on it, or have my passenger push on it while we drive, it minimizes the sound. I remember reading a thread a while ago that the door rattle often has to do with some clips in the speaker grille that come loose or worn with time and rattle around. Google "E46 coupe door rattle" and you'll find probably close to a hundred threads on the topic, all using their own shaman voodoo magic to cure their rattle only to have another crop up.Quote:
Originally Posted by bosszhp
Try replacing your door panel clips. They wear and get looser when you remove the door card and reuse the clips.
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Yeah I have a coupe. The sound is coming from the top middle part of the door panel and sounds like the glass rattling or something. Still happens when the window is rolled down a little bit and there isn't anywhere I can push or hold on the door that stops it. Since my Indy didn't see anything loose I'm guessing it's the clips.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Good luck, let me know if that solves your issue.
Failing window regulator a possibility?
I've been planning on waiting for warmer weather to sort it out, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to just ask. My driver rear suspension is squeaking pretty bad. I can't hear it from inside the car while driving, but when getting out of the car and unloading the suspension, it does it. When pushing on that corner of the car it does it, and it even squeaks a little when I just shut the driver door.
LMK if this is a common problem. If not, I'll just revert to typical suspension diagnostics when it's a little nicer out.
I think both my e46s did/do this. Not as often as it sounds in your case, though.
Curiouser and curiouser
Some success came from yesterday despite my disastrous VCG replacement. I took the door card off, taped down a few of the loose pins/clips and the sound is gone (knock on wood)! Hopefully it doesn't creek up again. On another note, how does my engine look? First time ever seeing her "exposed" hehe. For the miles I have on the car I was pleased to see very minimal sludge/buildup.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Attachment 23658
Attachment 23659
Did you use a specific guide to get the door card off? I've never done it and want to do it right.Quote:
Originally Posted by bosszhp
As for your engine, looks clean to me! But I've only seen the valve cover off on our cars twice, both times at a mechanics where they were basically cleaning out the top end so they were spotless.
I followed this video guide:Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5n9RkvBmAc
Hardest part was probably getting the Airbag emblem off, so in other words it's pretty easy. I even used the end of a spatula to wedge in-between the door panel and door to get the pins out haha. To make it easier roll down the window and lock the door. Just as I fixed my driver door rattle another one has popped up in my passenger door when playing bassy songs :thumbsdown
Well at least you know how to get to the gremlin now.
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"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - an e46f member
My clip tape fix only worked temporarily. Went over some speed bumps today and they must've come loose again because back came the rattle. Ponied up a full $10 and bought 50 clips from eBay. That should do the trick.
Link if anyone else needs them: http://www.ebay.com/itm/260776533668
Thanks for the link!
Just a heads up, I do recall from a few years ago that BMW made door clips with foam padding that might improve the buzzing. I think the part number is 51418224781. LIke these: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-BMW-Cl.../dp/B008LMWL38
If my eBay clips don't work well I'll pick some of those up. At $10 for 50 it was a no brainer but those ones with padding look intriguing.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Going to get my winter tires on this weekend and thinking the car could use an alignment. Are alignments specific to the tires being mounted on, or once the winters come off will it still be aligned with the everyday tires since they're bigger/wider? Just wondering whether i shoudl do the alignment now or wait til the winters come off in the spring.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
Hmm, I'm not sure it matters, but I may lean towards doing it with summer tires on. Other thoughts?
It shouldn't matter that much. I got an alignment over the summer and then put on the winter tires. I would just tell them to align the car using the VIn and the 18in option/sport option and drive. Shouldn't be an issue and then you are ready to go in the spring.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYRhockey
Good idea, i'll do that. Thx!Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVAphotog
Update on the side mirror: Ended up buying the mirror on ebay because the seller said it was the right color but really wasn't, so before fighting it with my credit card company / ebay i called the dealer and they referred me to their body shop. They said they could repaint it to match my color so brought it in for an estimate and they quoted me $70 to repaint.
Brought it in today for installation and told them the side mirrors were not working so they looked into it and changed the blown fuse for free and they also buffed out a couple of smudges i had from trying to use dr. colorchip and forgetting to clean it off, free of charge as well. Happy to see shops do little extras for the customer so overall a good experience and definitely a place i'd go back to again.
You shouldn't have to worry about this. They already do this by default; they go by VIN.Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVAphotog
What can I get to fix the broken rubber hose on the F connecter from my intake boot? When I had my E39 my old indy gave me some black rubber tubing that just slipped over both ends to reconnect them, anyone know where I can get it or what it's actually called?
Attachment 23700
Having the same problem as BossZHP, that lower hose is cracked almost to where it would be severed in his photo, Got a quote from my local dealership.
It would be 120$ for the F Connector & Two hoses or about 34$ per hose, I know the estimate is in my trunk
Ive heard of people just buying the same gauge tubing from "autopart stores" but idk what to even ask for lol
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Traction Control Q:
I couldn't begin to remember all the burnouts and donuts I did in my muscle car days, so now that I'm back to RWD for the first time in forever, I decided to test the waters by doing a quick wheel spin in the rain. I don't care for first gear "burnouts" because they're over so quickly and I can't help speed shifting second and doing it through another taller gear anyway.
So it was raining and I wanted get a second gear spin going. I don't know what my speeds were, but I went about halfway up the powerband in first, put the clutch in, shifted to second and revved it pretty good, then dropped the clutch pretty quick keeping on the gas pretty hard. It was jerky and a terrible experience I don't care to try again. I felt really bad for the car and immediately apologized for what I had done.
After realizing the DSC (that's what we're calling it, right?) was on, I pushed the button and the yellow symbol came up on the cluster. So I went for it again, but it wasn't much better than the first time. Very jerky and it felt like what I imagine it's like to ride a horse through deep water.
Are the 255's hard to get going? This is the widest tire I've ever run. It was raining that day, but the road was fairly clean and traction was actually mostly good as it turned out. I just wanted to use the wetness to test wheel spin without abusing the car too much and it didn't go very well, so before I decide to rev higher and drop the clutch harder and really abuse the car, some quick questions...
I've heard some BMW's with traction control have a button that turns yellow when you press it to deactivate, but if you continue to hold the button it turns red to completely disable it. I tried holding the DSC button and it just blanked out for a minute where it wouldn't do anything, then came back to normal after I left it alone for about 20/30 seconds.
My question is- when I push the button and the disable symbol illuminates on the cluster, I'm completely disengaged from traction control?
If not, how do I completely disengage it for happy fun time? Do I just need to get after it more? I just figured I'd check with you fellas before I do something stupid.
Thx in advance,
-U
When you press the DSC button the first time and the light illuminates, you're in "half traction control" mode. It lets you be a little more aggressive, but will "reign" you in if things get too crazy. For complete unmoderated burnout fun, you must hold the DSC button for ten seconds and the brake light will come on, only yellow (instead of red). Then the DSC system is completely disabled.Quote:
Originally Posted by UWISHU1
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Ahhhh...I knew I had to be missing something. Awesome. Thx man!
Does the brake light stay on the whole time DSC is off? And is the DSC-disable symbol on at the same time as the brake light?
No worries! Don't go too crazy on that drivetrain ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by UWISHU1
Both lights will stay illuminated until you press the DSC button again to re-enable the DSC system.
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Perfect. It's only a once in a while kinda thing...there's nothing I hate more than paying a bunch of money just to get a car back to the way it already was. I much prefer to spend my money on gofastbits.