I'm pretty sure you don't need toQuote:
Originally Posted by Boca_RatonZHP
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I'm pretty sure you don't need toQuote:
Originally Posted by Boca_RatonZHP
No. Otherwise you'd have to bleed the system every time you manually checked the coolant level.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boca_RatonZHP
Smart upgrade, I plan to get one with one of their VANOS rebuild kits.
Thanks for the quick replies guys.
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Mine was purchased 15 months ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Anyone know of a Tie Rod kit? I saw this one on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-OEM-Tie-...-/121947074192
Never heard of a kit before
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Ol' bimmerbumco has been bundling "kits" out of related BMW parts for years, sometimes mixing some often replaced items with some not so often replaced itemsQuote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
I need to price them out separately and see what it comes to.Quote:
Originally Posted by fw_fw
Best price I found is at AH AZ for Lemforder rods.
32131096910 Rack & Pinion Boot Kit $13.12 2 $26.24
32111096897OE Tie Rod Assembly; Left $74.16 1 $74.16
32211096898OE Tie Rod Assembly; Right $74.16 1 $74.16
Hmm Bimmerbum is $106 with shipping... Even if shipping was $20, it would still be cheaper
With boots and clamps? Kit looks to be $184.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
http://bimmerbum.com/products/2-0067...03-32106777504
Anybody have a complete parts list for a VCG and VANOS job, and what brands I should use? I expect I'll have to do mine at some point, and my sister's 330Xi will need it sooner rather than later.
As always, any help is greatly appreciated!
It's in my maintenance thread. Hang tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
Sent from an S6 Edge
#12 should help you out Curves.
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1830
Sent from an S6 Edge
Appreciate it, exactly what I was looking for. Is Beisan the preferred source for VANOS seals over Dr. Vanos or some other company? And should I consider items like VANOS oil lines or rattle kit while I'm in there?Quote:
Originally Posted by danewilson77
Will this oil filler cap fit our ZHP engines?? BMW # 11121405452
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Oil_Cap/ES18098/
You should definitely replace the VANOS oil line. It was a leak item for me. The VANOS oil line and the VCG were both contributing to my 600-mile top-ups.Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCurves
I did dr.vanos almost 4 years ago and it has been great
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
I've used the Besian kit and the kit from i6Motorworks that is available from Amazon here: http://www.amazon.com/DUAL-VANOS-O-R...ilpage_o05_s00
I highly recommend the i6Motorworks kit, as it comes with every possible seal, gasket, and replacement bolts that might be needed. When I used the Besian kit, one of the cap washers broke and I didn't have a replacement. I had to wait a few days for a replacement to arrive so I could put the car back together. You won't have this issue with the i6 kit, as everything needed is included. It doesn't include a new Vanos oil feed line, but it does have new crush washers for it. The seals are made of the same upgraded material as Besian provides. The i6 kit is only $65 shipped from Amazon and includes all of these parts, making it a much better deal than the others.
It seems that ever since I replaced my oil level sensor, it also doesn't seem to work right. I'm not entirely convinced no coding is necessary - I had a hard time finding information on whether it's required or not. Most said no, but then some said yes. Considering that the new one isn't quite working right, I'm hoping some coding is required...
Does anyone know definitively?
If I top up, it'll be fine for a while. But then eventually, after about 1000 miles or so, the light will start coming on when I shut off the car, and if I ignore it for a day or two, it will come on while driving, as though my oil level was actually low. The kicker is that when I check it, it's full on the dipstick.
I've had times when I've pre-emptively checked my oil level and it was full, and two days later the light comes on and it shows a quart low, which makes absolutely no sense, because I'd top it off and it'd be fine for another 1000 miles or so, at which point the light would come on and it would show completely full. I hope I didn't receive a defunct sensor.
No need to ask me if I check the oil on a level surface with the engine cold - of course I do. ;)
Is there a chance that your driveway is on an incline??
Very interesting, jokes aside.. ;)
so, the dipstick is actually showing a quart low after 2 days? that would have nothing to do with the sensor. clearly that dipstick indicates the level of oil in the pan, so i'm hypothesizing that not all of the oil is getting back down to the pan. seems odd, for sure - if you had some sort of blockage, it should be present all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
amsoil makes a safe 'engine flush' that you add with your oil, run it, then drain. perhaps worth a shot, especially given your mileage. also, have you done an oil analysis at all?
Good deal. Very convenient. Not sure why Besian doesn't offer this option.Quote:
Originally Posted by egiles14
yeah, that is very nice - same price as the beisan kit and comes with everything (bolts too!). the only question is - are the o-rings the same quality/material as the beisan ones?Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Most of the time this isn't my issue. Usually the sensor is giving me erroneous data. I just checked again this morning - dipstick showed full, but the light is on while driving. It drives me crazy - I shut the car off while in motion and turn it back on just to get rid of it.
Who's put 17s on their ZHP in a square setup? Is this an acceptable configuration?
On my 2000 328Ci, I had style 47 wheels, 17x8,et 47, using 235/45-17 tires. Can I just move those over to the ZHP, or should I use a different tire size? According to one of the wheel size calculator site I used, the diameter is only off by 1% over the current tires on my zhp.
hmmm. weird. you can code out the sensor entirely, but i'm guessing that's not what you want ultimately. :) perhaps you have a nearly-broken wire somewhere in the harness for that sensor?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Most members running winter tires go with 17" and 225/45's I think, so you should be able to use them no problem...Quote:
Originally Posted by MrAdventure
Just one oil line, correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
Good to hear. I'll look into them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
That looks like a great kit. How do you know they have upgraded seals like Beisan?Quote:
Originally Posted by egiles14
Egiles said "The seals are made of the same upgraded material as Besian provides." I'm not sure how he knows that, I'll try and confirm. But if it's true, definitely a great looking kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
This is exactly what my sensor does currently. My dip stick is right at the full marker but I'll still get the oil light. I'm hoping changing the sensor/oil will fix it but your issues seem to indicate that it won't. Let me know if you ever figure out if it needs to be coded. I may actually call my mechanic who was a BMW mechanic about some other stuff soon, I'll ask him and let you know what he says.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
I have a square setup using APEX ARC-8 17x8.5" ET40 wheels and they work great. Those style 47 wheels should work fine on our ZHPs. The tire size is up to you. My wheels are wrapped in 245/40R17 tires and they're smaller than the stock tires by some amount but they work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrAdventure
Avoid DrVanos for a bit. They have some quality control issues. I'll post a thread later.
Attachment 25448
Unit is rusting after only 15 months.
They have always done that... They media blast every unit they get. That's what it's from. Just hit those solenoid a with clear coat or silver before installing and you'll be fine
That's what I did (at Rob's suggestion). Clear lacquer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
Nobody mentioned it to me before I bought and installed it.
Anyway, DrVanos said they may start doing this themselves soon.
I know... Me neither.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
That's why I try to mention it on the forum every chance I get :)
Need to keep up with the boards! ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
Don't know why they don't.
Does anyone ever replace their post-cat o2 sensors as a PM item? In researching, it seems like the pre-cats are usually the only sensors replaced.
No one normally does that because all they do is monitor the cats
I made a thread just for it!Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
Saw that. Good call. [emoji1360]Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh