What did you do for your ZHP/BMW today?

Wow, you are truly rolling with the punches. Your patience is commendable.

Quote:

Originally Posted by toddness

Wow, you are truly rolling with the punches. Your patience is commendable.

Not much else I can do at this point. Just take it a laugh.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vas

And after driving around on these conti dws, I stand on my opinion of not buying all season tires ever again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by danewilson77

I had always heard good things about the DWS?

I drove them on an E30 once. They are very good for all seasons in the snow...

But otherwise I thought they were terrible. Very squeamish at the limit and braking performance decreased dramatically. But it all depends on your previous experience, driving style, and expectations! I'm sure some people love them and that's fine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by danewilson77

But...tread wear (UTGQ) is typically worse with a summer tire, no? I put 30k miles/yr on her....so I don't want to be taking out a second mortgage to finance tires :)

The PSS is up to a 300 rating with astonishing grip. UTGQ is generally associated with ultimate grip, but Michelin and Bridgestone have once again discovered how to further warp the laws of physics! I suppose we're all better for it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wsmeyer

Glad it worked out but I can't help but think it's not a coincidence that it happened after washing your car and then miraculously fixed itself. The relay is attached to the top of the starter. It's a combination relay and solenoid that engages the pinion gear. The smaller, low current wire is the one coming from the ignition switch and where you would check for voltage with the key turned.

William.

Once- when I washed my previous ZHP, I started it and it idled incredibly rough. It was warm, but kept trying to stall, the radio and HVAC kept flickering on and off as did the cluster lights and my headlights. I got freaked out and parked it for 24 hours. It never happened again- over a year and a half more driving... lifes mysteries...

Quote:

Originally Posted by webster

i'm having the same issue. i'm pretty sure it's the pump. the tank loses 80% of the liquid quickly but once it gets down below the sensor level it stays static...

I had that issue. There's kind of a trial to go through with it.

First, do you have the cold weather package? If so that makes it potentially much more complicated, an extra pump and the headlight washer seal gaskets. Order of item replacement:

1) Little pump gaskets. There is one on non-ZCW cars and two on ZCW cars. They cost about $2 each IIRC, and seem to fix the problem about half the time.

2) The pump or pumps. They can fail internally and only occasionally dump fluid out of the pump bleed hole.

3) A seal is either misaligned or broken on the headlight washer... I never got that far.

My car would do the same, hold fluid for a day or sometimes two, then dump it all out at once. It turned out to be a problem with the headlight washers. I plugged the headlight washer line- it was the first time I ever stopped short of following a problem to the end on that car.

On our old E39 528i it was the pump's little gasket.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexandre

Unplugged whatever sensor is in the hose that goes to the SAP... And the car started up super smooth. I've been having issues with jumping idle on warm startups for 3 months. So the SAP system has an issue somewhere... Hopefully it's the valve or a hose and not the pump. Glad to finally have an idea where the problem is.

The valve could really be a candidate for preventive replacement I think, maybe every 60k-80k. Once it goes bad it kills the pump extremely quickly. I've had experience with that on my previous ZHP and E36 M3. I have a theory- that if the valve is replaced before it breaks- the pumps are actually pretty bulletproof.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nike001

I washed my car today at the self-serve place and noticed all my wax + sealant was gone.. again. I give up.
^There. Back on track.

Maybe we should Opti-Coat both our cars in my garage when I get home! :shift

Sorry for the long post, I had some catching up to do!

Well, fluid reservoir is empty. Guess I'll have to dig deeper.

Unclip the pump connections and it's just one 10 mm nut holding it on. Inspect for cracks at the sensor location and leaking seals where the pumps mount.

Do you have headlight washers?

From a GS3, this was sent.

Thanks Justin, will do. Yes, I have headlight washers.

Those are prone to cracks and letting fluid go everywhere. Unless it's dripping from there and hitting the splash pan and running the whole way back I doubt it's them...ya never know tho.

From a GS3, this was sent.

Quote:

Originally Posted by zhp43867

The valve could really be a candidate for preventive replacement I think, maybe every 60k-80k. Once it goes bad it kills the pump extremely quickly. I've had experience with that on my previous ZHP and E36 M3. I have a theory- that if the valve is replaced before it breaks- the pumps are actually pretty bulletproof.

I'm curious though, because I have no codes on any of my modules and I think a bad SAP would throw a code. Would a bad valve throw a code too ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexandre

I'm curious though, because I have no codes on any of my modules and I think a bad SAP would throw a code. Would a bad valve throw a code too ?

Not necessarily... that is until it kills the pump. Maybe an upstream flow code? Certainly no guarantees.

I think there are actually youtube videos on how to test the valves, but I'm not sure. I just replaced mine on my newer ZHP and haven't had any problems... yet.

:drool:drool:drool

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/p...3/IMG_1104.jpg