Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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Thread: Tackled OB

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    2,003

    Tackled OB

    Decided to take 1.5 days and tackle this OB once and for all.

    This car's paint is far from perfect. Lots of swirls and deeper scratches from PO using a california water blade. That said, very happy with the results. Couldn't touch the deeper stuff, but it's worlds better than it was. I think with more patience I could get more of the deeper stuff out, but for some reason this OB seems a lot harder to polish than the IR and TiAg I've had on other E46s.

    Process:
    - wheels (sonax)
    - wash
    - clay
    - wash
    - M105 with LC yellow pad on a DA @ speeds 5 and 6 - had to do a lot of passes on the trunk lid and some other areas. Still, didn't get everything out.
    - menzerna super-intensive polish with LC white pad on a DA @ 5
    - I use 4 inch pads because they're easier to maneuver and you don't get product all over the place.
    - menzerna power lock sealant
    - let menzerna cure over night, apply second coat
    - optimum gloss enhancer QD on wheels
    - poorboys tire shine
    - black wow on black plastic
    - stoner's invisible glass
    - rainx
    - 303 aerospace protectant in wheel wells

    Did some basic interior stuff - leather, vacuum, etc...

    I'm not good at taking before and/or during photos.

    Before:




    During (after second polish):


    Afters:






    Note: If you use menzerna powerlock, make sure you get all of it off before applying the second layer! I have small pieces of residue trapped under the second layer! Guess I'll get them off in 4 months.

    I also debadged it.
    - Marc

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,445
    Beautiful! I need to do my car. Maybe after the weather cools a bit.


    Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by ELCID86 View Post
    Beautiful! I need to do my car. Maybe after the weather cools a bit.


    Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.
    +1

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NJ
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    Thanks guys. Definitely a lot of "zen" time!
    - Marc

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Deale, MD
    Posts
    1,826
    Nice werk Marc! She looks really good.

    Sent from my pineapple under the sea.

    -Brettski

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    4,924
    Questions, is M105 mequire's M105 cut compound?

    Is menzerna powerlock applied by hand?
    325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump

    328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet
    http://s900.photobucket.com/user/othibau/media/Junesig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/othibau/Junesig.jpg

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Is there any measurable benefit to 1) letting the powerlock cure and 2) applying a second coat? I currently do one coat and wipe it off immediately after I finish the panel...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    2,003
    Quote Originally Posted by Oli77 View Post
    Questions, is M105 mequire's M105 cut compound?

    Is menzerna powerlock applied by hand?
    Yes, M105 is the cut compound. For this job, with the marring on this paint, I could have used a more aggressive compound and/or DA. As I said, I could have gotten it all out, but it would have taken all weekend.

    I apply all wax/sealant by hand, though a lot of people apply by DA. I just prefer by hand.

    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    Is there any measurable benefit to 1) letting the powerlock cure and 2) applying a second coat? I currently do one coat and wipe it off immediately after I finish the panel...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Well I did some reading on the product and came to a few conclusions. Wiping it off immediately doesn't give it a chance to "bond" to the paint, as sealants want to do (whereas wax sits on top of the paint). So the general consensus on the detailing boards is to let it sit on the paint for a while (some even let it sit an hour or more), then remove, then let that layer sit for 12-24 hours, then reapply.

    The benefit of the second layer is entirely subjective. For me, it's another layer the weather has to work through to get to the clear coat. I don't think it changes the appearance of it at all. I used to put collinite insulator wax on top of the powerlock or whatever sealant I was using, but I wanted to try this out for once.

    I definitely found that letting it sit on the paint before removing made it extremely easy to work with. Then the next day when I removed the second layer and found the small areas of first layer residue that I couldn't touch let me realize that this product actually layers, which makes me think it's protecting well. It's not scientific, but I've never seen it before.
    - Marc

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    4,924
    Thanks Marc, I am new to this and learning. Is DA an orbital polisher?
    325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump

    328i, 2010, 6MT, Spacegrey, dakota leather, M-sport packages; has a 330 intake but no tune - yet
    http://s900.photobucket.com/user/othibau/media/Junesig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/ac208/othibau/Junesig.jpg

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Quote Originally Posted by zhpnsnv View Post
    Well I did some reading on the product and came to a few conclusions. Wiping it off immediately doesn't give it a chance to "bond" to the paint, as sealants want to do (whereas wax sits on top of the paint). So the general consensus on the detailing boards is to let it sit on the paint for a while (some even let it sit an hour or more), then remove, then let that layer sit for 12-24 hours, then reapply.

    The benefit of the second layer is entirely subjective. For me, it's another layer the weather has to work through to get to the clear coat. I don't think it changes the appearance of it at all. I used to put collinite insulator wax on top of the powerlock or whatever sealant I was using, but I wanted to try this out for once.

    I definitely found that letting it sit on the paint before removing made it extremely easy to work with. Then the next day when I removed the second layer and found the small areas of first layer residue that I couldn't touch let me realize that this product actually layers, which makes me think it's protecting well. It's not scientific, but I've never seen it before.
    Damn! I guess I'm gonna have to remove/apply again before the winter. Thanks!
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

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