:confused: Or did you just use the one on the seal website? Forgot the name. I am going to be doing this but wanted to see another diy on this before I start taking stuff apart on the engine.
Thanks
:confused: Or did you just use the one on the seal website? Forgot the name. I am going to be doing this but wanted to see another diy on this before I start taking stuff apart on the engine.
Thanks
-JJ
2005 Zhp Sedan (Sold), back in the 2004 Allroad 2.7t
FYI, the VANOS rattle will just return after a few thousand miles unless you do one of the anti-rattle kits. Ask me how I know.
http://www.beisansystems.com/products.html Note: this method requires you to do all of the work. You'll save some $$ but most have described it as a PITA.
http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?opt...&id=2&Itemid=3 Easier but it obviously costs more.
Don't forget you'll need a few other parts like a VC gasket, etc.
Eli, did you get the anit rattle from beisan? I was planning on getting both the seal kit and rattle kit soon but forgot I will also need a new gasket.
-JJ
2005 Zhp Sedan (Sold), back in the 2004 Allroad 2.7t
Everything you need including the procedure is at www.beisansystems.com
Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim
I got the seal kit and had it done before the anti-rattle kits were even made. Now it needs to be done again with the anti-rattle. Dane's right, read the instructions very carefully and they tell you everything you'll need when it comes to parts.
has anyone installed the anti-rattle kit? I remember reading that there was some sanding and some minor custom fabrication involved in the installation
03 TiAg 330i ZHP-Alex
Mmmm....read through the procedure and point me to the step.
Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim
It's way down at the bottom of the rattle fix instructions Dane.
http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
You may need to do some sanding of parts if the bearing play is either too loose or too tight. I was glad I didn't have any rattle so I skipped the rattle fix. I'm sure I would have been worried about whether I was installing it with the correct amount of play in the bearing since there is no way to be sure if you have it just right. If I would have had a rattle I probably would have went with the DrVanos replacement Vanos. I went with the Beisan kit and followed his DIY and everything went great. No issues at all. Can't say I noticed any difference though before and after but I have to wonder if the PO may have already done one or the other since my valve cover gasket was nice and soft when I took it apart, not hard like I would have expected at 75,000 miles.
jj.......if you're using the Beisan kit, also along with the valve cover gasket, don't forget to order the Vanos gasket #19 since the kit doesn't come with it. I also ordered #9 and #10 just to be safe. Didn't need the bolts but the plastic blind plugs were tough to get out and got a little chewed up by my needlenose pliers so I used the new ones. For $3 it's worth it just in case. You'll also need 2 of #17 gaskets. I also replaced #3 just to be safe. Don't know if it was necessary though.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...70&hg=11&fg=15
Also I ordered a couple of spare #5 and #8 valve cover studs/nuts, also not needed. When tightening the valve cover bolts they will bottom out when they are tight so just make them snug at that point and you'll be fine. I just used a screwdriver type nut-driver with a 10mm socket on it and just tightened them all with that, no chance of over-torquing one and twisting it off. Use a 1/4 ratchet on the few back ones that you can't reach with the nut-driver.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...72&hg=11&fg=15
Barry