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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave1027 View Post
    I did the fan delete/conversion on my car when I did the cooling system refresh plus belts and pulleys. It's quieter and and I don't have to worry about the mech fan self destructing and causing extensive damage. I'm hoping not having it doesn't cause my tranny to fail prematurely.

    Here's the best way to bleed the cooling system when all done replacing parts. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1124821
    That self destructing is the real reason I am thinking of doing it. The extra space and less noise is just a bonus. Did you follow a thread or instructions when you did yours? Mind linking it here? ( I found a bunch, but just wondering if you liked one over another)

    Have you seen any issues come up since you did yours? Running hot or anything?

    I'm in PA, but only drive in the summer really, but I have heard guys in MUCH hotter climates doing this fan delete to their AUTO's with no problems, so I think I would be fine here in PA.

    If I do the fan delete I'll probably use my original AUX fan and just get the proper new shroud (17117511168) for like $70 rather than getting a whole new Behr fan for $230.
    Last edited by Kimber; 03-29-2018 at 04:04 AM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Central California
    Posts
    687
    Quote Originally Posted by Kimber View Post

    Have you seen any issues come up since you did yours? Running hot or anything?

    I'm in PA, but only drive in the summer really, but I have heard guys in MUCH hotter climates doing this fan delete to their AUTO's with no problems, so I think I would be fine here in PA.

    If I do the fan delete I'll probably use my original AUX fan and just get the proper new shroud (17117511168) for like $70 rather than getting a whole new Behr fan for $230.
    I did not use one specific DIY. I pulled info from multiple internet sources before doing the conversion. I purchased an entire aux fan assembly because I did not want to take a chance with an old fan motor. I ended up getting a "Cool Expert" fan assembly for not too much cost.

    It has been working fine for a few years now. It only comes on when it needs to like idling at stop lights and when driving slow speed. When I pull into the garage and turn off the key I can sometimes hear it winding down. Otherwise I never hear it. I do notice the slight load it puts on the alternator when it engages when idling but I don't hear it. It is a variable speed so normally it spins slow and silent.

    I'm in central California and it certainly gets hot here in the summer. Sometime hits 110 degrees. The temp needle always stays dead center. My only concern was for transmission longevity. It's been said that heat kills transmissions and logic tells me BMW included the mech on the auto cars for transmission cooling.

  3. #13

    Parts list

    So I have been going thru what posts I could find and using Mango's guide as well. I'll most likely use FCP Euro since they have a lifetime warranty on everything they sell and I have ordered from them before and been happy with their service, etc. This is what I came up with so far:

    17119071519 Radiator for Auto Trans - Behr
    17117573781 Expansion Tank - Modine at FCP (they also have Behr for less money, which is better?)
    11531436408 Radiator Hose lower - Rein
    17127510952 Raditor Hose Upper _ Rein
    11531436410 Expansion tank to lower hose - Rein
    11537509227 Thermostat Assembly -Wahler
    13621433077 AUXiliary Fan Switch - OEM at FCP
    07119963200 Coolant drain crush washer at engine -block - BMW
    17137553919 Fluid Level sensor _ OEM at FCP
    17111712963 Fan Shroud Clip - Genuine BMW (in case I break them)
    17111437362 Auto trans Oil cooler thermostat - OEM at FCP
    17111711987 Auto Trans cooler o-rings (need 2)
    I've got the 1.2 bar G.A.S. coolant cap from when I did my DISA rebuild


    Do I need 17111707777 Expansion tank mounting clamp? (or can I use the original)

    Do I need 17111436251 Expansion Tank Retainer (or can I use the original)

    Do I only need 1 gallon of BMW coolant? (82141467704)

    What do you guys think about adding the Redline Water Wetter Coolant Additive - 12oz?

    And I have no idea what water pump I should get. I really don't see the need for the Stewart for $195 unless all the rest are just garbage. What has everyone used and been happy with?

    Anything else I am missing on the coolant refresh side of things guys?



    I'll be putting my UUC underdrive pulley kit on at the same time, so I figure I am going to do all the pulley's and tensioner's while I have everything apart and easy to reach.

    I'm thinking of going INA for everything, or is there something better?

    I have to check my A/C belt (which I will order new as well) to see if its 4 or 5 wide which should determine which part I need for the tensioner with pulley, but it should be : 11287512758 (4 rib) or 11281433571 (5 rib) and these tensioner's come with the pulley and new dust caps...I'l just reuse my old bolts unless someone says I need to order those new as well.

    11287841228 Drive Belt Idler Pulley - INA
    11281730349 Pulley Protection Cap - Genuine BMW
    07119904677 Idler Pulley Securing Bolt - Genuine BMW

    INA-5330097100 at FCP is the whole kit for the accessory belt tensioner (hydraulic) which having the '06 vert I am pretty sure its hydraulic, but have to double check.

    I think that's all I need for that part of the job...am I missing anything guys?


    And I'm still thinking about what I want to do for the main fan delete (or should be called 2 for 1 fan swap). I can get the fan shroud (17117511168) for around 70 and just swap out my stock AUX fan and be done. I'm not seeing a new "manual trans" fan setup anywhere for much cheaper than $200. Am I not looking hard enough, or is that what people are paying. I don't see anything wrong with my AUX fan, so thought that would save me $130. Anyone disagree?

    Thanks guys!

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave1027 View Post
    I did not use one specific DIY. I pulled info from multiple internet sources before doing the conversion. I purchased an entire aux fan assembly because I did not want to take a chance with an old fan motor. I ended up getting a "Cool Expert" fan assembly for not too much cost.

    It has been working fine for a few years now. It only comes on when it needs to like idling at stop lights and when driving slow speed. When I pull into the garage and turn off the key I can sometimes hear it winding down. Otherwise I never hear it. I do notice the slight load it puts on the alternator when it engages when idling but I don't hear it. It is a variable speed so normally it spins slow and silent.

    I'm in central California and it certainly gets hot here in the summer. Sometime hits 110 degrees. The temp needle always stays dead center. My only concern was for transmission longevity. It's been said that heat kills transmissions and logic tells me BMW included the mech on the auto cars for transmission cooling.
    I've read that about the auto trans cooling as well, but by getting rid of the AUX fan in front that opens up the radiator to all that fresh air, and if it gets warm enough I would think the electric fan would pull enough air thru to cool it down. If it was really an issue, you would think BMW would have put a bigger trans cooler on rather than the deck of cards size one we have now. LOL I'm not worried about it to be honest.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    18,064
    I did the fan delete too... as said, not a must do but helpful. For radiators, I would think a bit soon but I have not heard any negatives about Mishimoto.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    1,162
    Quote Originally Posted by Kimber View Post
    Do I need 17111707777 Expansion tank mounting clamp? (or can I use the original)

    Do I need 17111436251 Expansion Tank Retainer (or can I use the original)

    Do I only need 1 gallon of BMW coolant? (82141467704)

    What do you guys think about adding the Redline Water Wetter Coolant Additive - 12oz?

    And I have no idea what water pump I should get. I really don't see the need for the Stewart for $195 unless all the rest are just garbage. What has everyone used and been happy with?
    You don't need to get 17111707777 or 17111436251. I was able to reuse my existing ones without any issues.

    1 gallon of coolant is more than enough. You are going to mix it 50/50 with distilled water anyways

    You don't need any Redline water wetter or anything. Just OEM coolant and water mix.

    I got GEBA water pump (link)when I did my cooling system refresh in 2014. The o-rings died in December of 2017 so I had to get another water pump because I was in a pinch and could not source just the o-rings. The water pump was still working fine.

    Here is a comprehensive aux fan delete guide (and other related info). I have done this swap a year+ ago and no issues so far. Mind you, I used an actual electric fan from a manual ZHP instead of doing the shroud and module swap.

    http://e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=849735
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  7. #17
    I just did a cooling system refresh, and it's not a bad job (well, I had my whole front end off since it was rebuilding a wrecked car). I'd use the really fancy stewart water pump and aluminum pulleys while you're there. I would also avoid mishimoto stuff. I got their radiator and expansion tank and they both leaked pretty bad, and then wouldn't back up their product. Basically told me to pound sand when I talked to them about it.
    John||2005 BMW 330i ZHP||1995 Chevrolet Camaro 3.4L||2008 Hummer H2 SUT|| @oltorf.the.destroyer

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,258
    Here's what I documented on my cooling system refresh when I did it in the spring of 2015, with links to guides I followed: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...156#post429156

    Here are the parts I used in my sister's 330Xi cooling system refresh: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...tenance-Ledger

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Oltorf View Post
    I just did a cooling system refresh, and it's not a bad job (well, I had my whole front end off since it was rebuilding a wrecked car). I'd use the really fancy stewart water pump and aluminum pulleys while you're there. I would also avoid mishimoto stuff. I got their radiator and expansion tank and they both leaked pretty bad, and then wouldn't back up their product. Basically told me to pound sand when I talked to them about it.
    Yeah I have the UUC underdrive water and steering pump pulley set to install (leaving the alternator stock as I have plans for a new audio system this summer). I heard a couple bad things about Mishimoto leaking on those items (and even their hoses) plus the customer service is nonexistent.

    So the only Mishimoto part I think I will be adding is possibly the air intake piping kit they have. (seems like the fit isn't perfect but it works good once you shave it to fit)

    Thanks for the input!

  10. #20
    Autozone.com
    Quote Originally Posted by johnrando View Post
    I did the fan delete too... as said, not a must do but helpful. For radiators, I would think a bit soon but I have not heard any negatives about Mishimoto.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    I think we talked long a go about you doing the fan delete. I'm pretty sure i am just going to get the shroud and swap my front fan and be done with it. That fan doesn't get used hard, and I'd rather not spend 200 or so on a new "manual trans" fan assembly when I have the fan already.

    So your thoughts are the radiator doesn't need to be replaced? I should be hitting 100k miles soon, but as I said in the OP I drive maybe 5k a year if that. I guess I was just thinking I am doing all these other parts and everything will be ripped out already, now would be an easy time, but if its a waste of money, then why do it.

    Let me know your thoughts?

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