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Thread: Tim's Mystic Blue ZHP Coupe

  1. #131
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    17,801
    Awesome!

    Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  2. #132
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by johnrando View Post
    Awesome!

    Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
    Thanks JR!





    I’d been driving a lot more at night and noticed my headlights were basically pointed at the ground. Followed Trevor’s DIY from years ago and got them adjusted. Now my headlights actually do something!

    Before:


    After:


    Next was a bunch of stuff done, both for track prep, and to tackle rust I had noticed over the past year. Things to do:


    • Tackle rust (took up most of the time)
    • Install front ARB reinforcement plates, install front ARB
    • Warranty new front rotors
    • Clutch and brake fluid flush
    • Install DTC-60 pads all-around, install new front caliper carriers
    • Install new wheel studs
    • Install rear shock shields


    The following areas were rusty/needed addressing:


    • Rear shock towers (noticed when I installed my coilovers last year)
    • Driver’s side rear floor plug (noticed when I had my car on the lift back in May)
    • Random small spots near driver’s rear floor
    • Bottom of battery tray


    Started off by stripping the interior, up to and including the rear carpet:



    Rear shock towers were just surface corrosion so that was ground down:





    As are the spots underneath the battery tray:



    I also checked the inside of the battery tray, which appeared to have some rust. However, those were just loose particles, perhaps shavings from when I installed the vincebar. It cleaned up real nice and I saw no need to touch it:



    The big issue was the rear floor plug – the passenger’s side was fine, but at some point the driver’s side must’ve popped out a little, letting water in. Not sure when it happened but luckily I caught it fairly early. Unfortunately not early enough for all the metal to be solid – this is a pretty good example of how it may not look that rusty, when in reality it’s just the tip of the iceberg. All in all the hole grew to about twice its size, before I hit healthy, solid metal:





    A bit of a bummer, but not as bad as some of the others I’ve seen online. I thought about many options – I was heading to the body shop to get my rear bumper painted (details of which will be in the next post) and thought about seeing if I could get the hole welded with a patch plate. In the end, I decided to fibreglass it, as it was an economical option that was completely fine in this application. Thinking about it, although the hole is now twice the size of what was there originally, in the grand scheme of things it’s still rather small, so it won’t affect the structural integrity of the body. And as long as the metal is treated to stop rusting, it won’t spread, especially when top-coated with POR15. Plus having had prior composites experience, I was fairly confident in making a repair that will stand up to the test of time.

    To prevent further spread of rust I soaked this, along with all other exposed areas of metal with POR15 metal ready. Only then could the fibreglass be applied.

    For the hole, the obvious solution was to use 3M’s fibreglass repair kit, which I did end up using, but was hesitant on. Some reviews have mentioned it as providing chopped-strand mat fabric, which I wasn’t too keen on using. However, the kit I bought did come with plain-weave, which was fine by me.

    Started off with a template, one for top and one for bottom:



    Then started cutting the fabric out. I ended up putting 10 layers, 6 on top and 4 on bottom – without proper vacuum bagging I was worried the bottom layers would debond while curing. I also cut out pieces with varying ply orientations, to ensure the repair could withstand loads applied from any direction.



    Finished repair – I tapped it with the handle of a screwdriver and it wouldn’t budge, seems pretty solid.





    With that sorted, I went ahead and POR15’d all the exposed metal, along with the fibreglass:



    To prevent the same failure mode that caused the repaired hole, I went ahead and added seam-sealer around all the other plugs I could access. This includes the pair on top of the fuel tank, the ones in the battery tray, the two in each of the rear wheel wells, and the one remaining in the rear floor on the passenger’s side.





    Next was rubberized rock-chip guard, to top-coat the POR15’d areas, and with that, we’re done.



    I did also pull off the side skirts to check for rust, and replace some broken clips, which I’d noticed since the skirt would sag outwards ever so slightly. Luckily for me as the rocker panels were completely replaced in 2016, all I was met with was not a trace of rust, and a thin layer of cosmoline over everything. Mmmmmm just the way I like it:





    Up next on the list were to front ARB reinforcement plates that I waterjet earlier. Started off sanding those down and soaking in POR15 metal ready:



    A key to a solid bond is all in the prep work, so I made sure to thoroughly sand down the mounts themselves:



    3M DP460 adhesive applied, consistent bond gap achieved by torquing the two mount nuts:



    Installed:



    Also got the new front ARB in (ST 30 mm M3 bar). You versus the guy she tells you not to worry about:



    Took apart the rear shocks so I could install the rear shock shields, which I got from another project where it wasn’t being used. Perfect fit, and glad I don’t have to worry about potential nicks in an exposed shock shaft, that could cause a leak:





    Got the new Motorsport Hardware wheel studs installed – the ECS Tuning ones have served me well for 4 years, but it’s a no-brainer to go with annual replacements from FCP. Also got the new DTC-60 pads in, along with new (used) front caliper carriers – hooray to no stripped slide pin threads! Then, wrapped up everything with a clutch and brake fluid flush with ATE Type 200.

    Lastly, going to get my RS4s flipped and mounted to the style 68s. Hopefully now, with the larger front bar the wear on the outer shoulders is not going to be as bad.

    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  3. #133
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    508
    Nice work, all this rust talk is giving flashbacks to the motherland. Maybe I should try the Sreten method and pick up cars from Spain. Let us know how the massive front bar feels on track.

    Also you still owe me pics of square Style 68s mounted on the car!
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  4. #134
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    Nice work, all this rust talk is giving flashbacks to the motherland. Maybe I should try the Sreten method and pick up cars from Spain. Let us know how the massive front bar feels on track.

    Also you still owe me pics of square Style 68s mounted on the car!
    Yeah, I briefly thought about selling this one and buying another rust-free once I move, but I've put too much into it, and it also has sentimental value given it's my first car from 6 years ago.

    Rims should be going on the car in the next few days so I'll be sure to post a few pics!
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  5. #135
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    3,045
    Man that was a nice chunk of work. Glad you were able to fiberglass patch the hole as trying to weld that up would have been such a mess. Definitely pumped for the 30mm bar!

  6. #136
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    1,926
    Work looks great! Nice catch on the battery compartment, looks like a solid fix.

    Quote Originally Posted by t.er View Post
    Yeah, I briefly thought about selling this one and buying another rust-free once I move, but I've put too much into it, and it also has sentimental value given it's my first car from 6 years ago.
    I was in this perpetual conundrum for my entire period of ownership lmao. Seeing your undercarriage and rocker panels, definitely doesn't warrant this operation. You've got all the weak spots addressed. New car = new problems.
    Alex '16 Melbourne Red 328d Touring
    M Sport + M Performance Package

    Gone, but not forgotten: '03 Imola Red 330i ZHP - 6MT


  7. #137
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
    Man that was a nice chunk of work. Glad you were able to fiberglass patch the hole as trying to weld that up would have been such a mess. Definitely pumped for the 30mm bar!
    I can't tell if it's because of the bar, the wider rims (and thus not pinched tires), or both. But turn-in response is a lot sharper. I tried to push it a bit on a highway on-ramp, couldn't stay at the limit for very long but I felt like it did push a bit, which my 900 lb rear springs should help out with. Those aren't going in yet because I want to see how the car is with just the larger front bar - I have 6 day passes to use, so I'll be incrementally adding parts for the first few!

    Quote Originally Posted by alexandre View Post
    Work looks great! Nice catch on the battery compartment, looks like a solid fix.

    I was in this perpetual conundrum for my entire period of ownership lmao. Seeing your undercarriage and rocker panels, definitely doesn't warrant this operation. You've got all the weak spots addressed. New car = new problems.
    Yeah exactly - new cooling system, oil pan gasket, OFHG, suspension bushings, etc. and the big one is the 2x RACP reinforcement with Redish plates and vincebar, both of which I am not super inclined to go through again. And yes, although this car does have its rust issues they are quite minor - got lucky with BMW Canada rust warranty so any rot left over is fairly reasonable.

    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    Also you still owe me pics of square Style 68s mounted on the car!
    took these just for you bby











    Bear in mind the front has a 12 mm spacer, for clearance to the spring seat on the strut. Though without the spacer it did go on fine, but there was nearly zero gap with the tire. The rears being so sunk in by comparison looks anorexic lol

    The studs I bought are also pretty long, it's comical how much they stick out from the rear rims.

    Front:



    Rear:



    Also on a side note it turns out I was running my 245 RS4s on 17x7.5" rims, not 8" wide like I originally thought. Super-pinched lol
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


  8. #138
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    508
    That is HOT. I really miss my 68s. Thanks for the pics, this confirms that I need a square set of 8.5s as well for dedicated performance tires. Sadly that will have to wait as it's not worth getting that for one more year.

    I'd probably run without spacers though, I wonder if that would cause any rubbing under hard driving.
    330i Base | Mysticblau | Slicktop | 6MT

  9. #139
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    897
    Quote Originally Posted by Galapolis View Post
    That is HOT. I really miss my 68s. Thanks for the pics, this confirms that I need a square set of 8.5s as well for dedicated performance tires. Sadly that will have to wait as it's not worth getting that for one more year.

    I'd probably run without spacers though, I wonder if that would cause any rubbing under hard driving.
    Hmmm yeah that's a good point - for my first track day when I ran my street setup, that was 17x8.5 ET40 when this is effectively ET38, so only 2 mm more poke. But back then I was on stock suspension with higher ride height, but also less stiff. I did do some fairly aggressive lane changes/slaloms and thought I heard something but didn't see anything. Perhaps I should jack up the wheel and see how close it gets...

    Oh and on a other note man those DTC-60s are abrasive as hell when cold. Fairly loud scraping when you get on the pedal, and you can see the individual grooves of where the new rotor is effectively sanded. Thank god for FCP warranty!



    Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk
    2004 BMW 330CI ZHP (well, technically ZAM)


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