Found this about using INPA to bleed ABS on an E9x:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598994
William.
Found this about using INPA to bleed ABS on an E9x:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598994
William.
2006 CiC 6MT
ZHP, Cold Weather, Xenon
Sapphire Black / Black Leather / Black Cube
Full directions for E46 bleeding with INPA: (UNTESTED)
Open INPA.
Select E46
Select Chassis
Select DSC MK60
Select Activate (F6)
Select either F2 or F3 (ABS FL RL or FR RR) depending on which one you are bleeding
When you hear the ABS buzz, open the bleed valve. It will then make a second noise where is activates the valves at which point the pedal will start going down in pulses and the fluid will start coming out the caliper.
Repeat.
This sounds very interesting as it would mean an easy way to thoroughly flush and bleed your lines and ABS by yourself. I'm going to play with it this weekend and report back.
William.
2006 CiC 6MT
ZHP, Cold Weather, Xenon
Sapphire Black / Black Leather / Black Cube
You are correct in that it's not simply cycling the pump.
Basically you pressurize the system, load up the ABS bleeding function in DIS and follow the onscreen instructions. It will instruct you to open up a bleeder, make a lot of noise, and push some fluid out. Depending on which valves have air trapped in them, you may or may not see some bubbles flow out.
In my case, almost all of the bubbles came out of the driver-side front
Maybe I should do a full write-up...
INPA's bleeding functions are not the same as what DIS does - in my experience it's no where near as effective. This is one of the few cases where it's advantageous to have the dealer programs rather than the factory programs.
These ideas all sound great, but I still need to get all of the software and the cable right?? Frustrating...
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Buy this cable: http://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Diagnosti...eywords=VW+409
It won't have battery and ignition detect like a cable meant for BMWs, but that doesn't really matter. If that bugs you, look for a "D-CAN" cable.
Then find DavidMc's 4shared folder (there's a link and password somewhere in the diagnostics section of bimmerforums) and download EDIABAS 6.4.3 and EasyDIS v44. There are guides on how to set all the software up.
Well a little more to update. I manually bled the ABS unit today and it seems a bit better. I didn't get a lot of air out, at least it didn't seem like it, but the pedal is a lot better. It's still kind of soft, definitely not as firm as it should be for having the SS lines, but it's getting better. I'm hoping one more drive to do some panic stops and get the ABS activating, then one more set of bleeds (ABS and wheels) and I should be done.
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2011 E90 Lemans Blue/Bamboo Beige M3- Harrop Supercharged IG: lmb_zcp
2013 F25 Alpine White/Chestnut X3 35i- Family Hauler
2006 R53 British Racing Green/Panther Black Mini Cooper S FOR SALE! DM for details!
Past: 2010 X5M, 2014 328d, 2003 330i ZHP, 2004 330i ZHP, 2012 X3 35i
WTB!! 2009-2012 E91 328i Touring Contact me with info!
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
I've used both v44 and v55 with success.
I do remember it being a bit tricky to find the function. I'll try again tomorrow and take screen shots. I won't actually perform the bleeding procedure though - but it should be pretty straight forward once you get to the function
Thanks, I had the same problem as the OP when re-did my brakes but I couldn't find the bleeding procedure. It will be good info for everyone...
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
I'm having the same mushy pedal feeling that Jon was having. I can lock up the brakes and brake normally, but my pedal is not as firm as it was before I did my brake job. Identical problems Jon had. (Let me know if you got it fixed and what you method you used).
So now I have another question. How can I explain this procedure to my mechanic so that they can completely bleed my brakes and flush bubbles out of my abs and or DSC system? I'm not very well versed on this topic and coding is something that is still relatively foreign to me. Any help would be appreciated, and as soon as I get home from work I will be able to research a little easier.
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