Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
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  1. #5611
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    18,061
    Thanks for the name vote. It would be a cool name, maybe cuz it sounds like Rambo. But, that's not my last name.

    Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  2. #5612
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Long Beach, CA
    Posts
    1,684
    Don't let door dings get you too down. They are annoying but better than scratches IMO (not scuffs you can just buff out). I haven't had a door ding on any of my cars that a pro hasn't been able to remove to my satisfaction. And it's not too expensive to repair. I would rather have a door ding than a deep paint scratch any day.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    2005 BMW 330i ZHP 6MT. Built 11-19-04. Bought 4-2012.
    Stock: Nav, leather, PDC, Xenon
    Added by me: OEM Alarm, OEM heated seats, OEM aux kit, OEM Bluetooth, intravee, M3 strut brace, BMW Performance Intake, Nappa leather arm rest, updated LCM (triple blink, euro hazards, trifecta lighting, 3 stage brakes), temp gauge

  3. #5613
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    18,061
    +1 Marcus. That is bummer, but PDR will clear those for you and you'll never know they were there.
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  4. #5614
    Quote Originally Posted by ELCID86 View Post
    Interested to know how you diagnosed for this. Symptoms? I have some front end noise, I'm hoping it's the tires (old)-- I think.


    Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.
    Brake wobbling, have replaced everything that could have possibly contributed to it minus the bearings and hub assembly.

    When I took the rotors off and shook the bearings, they were visibly loose.

    My rear wheel bearings I know for a fact are bad. My rear left makes a low drone at 50 and 70 mph. Not anything too loud or annoying, kinda sounds a little like the exhaust but is definitely the wheel bearing for sure. If you're experiencing that with your front wheels that might be it.

    Go to AutoZone and get two Timken-branded hubs for $45 each. Literally the cheapest you'll get, and they're identical to OE. Other than that, the only special tools you'll need are:

    - 46mm socket
    - 36mm impact socket (for whacking the hub on - bonus: if you don't have one yet, this also works on the oil filter)
    - 250 ft/lbs max torque wrench
    - 10mm deep socket
    - Mallet
    - 2-jaw puller

    If you've been doing car work for a long time, you've probably got all these. In that case, pick up 2 new hub nuts, 2 new hub dust caps, 2 new rear hub dust shields, and both of those wheel bearings. You'll be done in a few hours by just taking your time. The longest part is the cleanup.

  5. #5615
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,444
    Quote Originally Posted by Zell View Post
    Brake wobbling, have replaced everything that could have possibly contributed to it minus the bearings and hub assembly.

    When I took the rotors off and shook the bearings, they were visibly loose.

    My rear wheel bearings I know for a fact are bad. My rear left makes a low drone at 50 and 70 mph. Not anything too loud or annoying, kinda sounds a little like the exhaust but is definitely the wheel bearing for sure. If you're experiencing that with your front wheels that might be it.

    Go to AutoZone and get two Timken-branded hubs for $45 each. Literally the cheapest you'll get, and they're identical to OE. Other than that, the only special tools you'll need are:

    - 46mm socket
    - 36mm impact socket (for whacking the hub on - bonus: if you don't have one yet, this also works on the oil filter)
    - 250 ft/lbs max torque wrench
    - 10mm deep socket
    - Mallet
    - 2-jaw puller

    If you've been doing car work for a long time, you've probably got all these. In that case, pick up 2 new hub nuts, 2 new hub dust caps, 2 new rear hub dust shields, and both of those wheel bearings. You'll be done in a few hours by just taking your time. The longest part is the cleanup.
    Thanks. Pretty sure my noise is in the front. Recommend doing all 4 at the same time or ok to just try the fronts? Sounds like I do have most of those tools.


    Tapatalk on iPad

  6. #5616
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    316
    Saw a couple of frosty mornings this week, so decided to take advantage of the long weekend and put the winter rubber on.

    Every spring / fall when I do the tire swap, I also like to 1) adjust the compact spare tire pressure, and 2) adjust the handbrake.

    Does anyone else use these cool tire hangers from Reverse Logic? They sure make the job a lot easier.





    The finished product. Somebody was asking for pics of these wheels mounted after I posted a post cleaning pic of them a few weeks back. They're not bad, but I miss my 135M's already.



    Still need to clean the chalk marks off!
    __________________________________________________

    2008 128i ZSP Sedonarot

    ---

    2004 330i ZHP Imolarot
    Conforti Shark Injector - Installation Pending!
    AFE Magnum FORCE Stage 1 PRO 5R Intake
    ECS Tuning Strut Bar
    ECS Tuning Magnetic Drain Plug
    German Auto Solutions DISA Gold Valve
    CDV Delete
    BSW and Polk Drivers
    Ziza LED Interior Kit
    Khoalty CREE LED Reverse Lights
    BMW strut tower reinforcement plates


  7. #5617
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Long island, New York
    Posts
    1,493
    Nice Stewbie.

  8. #5618
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,444
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewbie View Post
    Does anyone else use these cool tire hangers from Reverse Logic? They sure make the job a lot easier.
    I have them on my wish list. Thanks for the input.

  9. #5619
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Long island, New York
    Posts
    1,493
    Those tire hangers are really cool. Me likey.

  10. #5620
    Quote Originally Posted by ELCID86 View Post
    Thanks. Pretty sure my noise is in the front. Recommend doing all 4 at the same time or ok to just try the fronts? Sounds like I do have most of those tools.


    Tapatalk on iPad
    I'd say just two at a time, but if you can do all four then hey no harm. The rears are cheaper than the fronts since you just need the bearing; however, you'll need a $100 harbor freight tool and need to rent a hub separator. But you can sell the harbor freight tool afterwards, unless they can work for other things (e.g. differential bushings). Now you don't *need* the Harbor Freight tool, but it'll make the job much better. Otherwise you gotta manufacture an odd contraption out of Home Depot parts.



    Also a great time to replace your parking brake shoes and perhaps refresh the springs and lube/clean the adjusting mechanism since the rears require removal of them.

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