OMG its a BMW ZHP!!!!

[DirtyPillows]

So I thought i start my web journal of mods and upgrades I have done and will Plan to do. Though I can guarantee that my journal will be the slowest nonetheless I feel its necessary

However on this glorious day I have achieved 100+ hp. Yes I know you must be asking yourself how did he do it? Simple I say

Remove old roundel that has been hindering airflow and awesomeness



And Replace with new and improved GUARANTEED 100+ hp Roundel




Haha well neways this was my first modification if wanna say. But im happy that it is no longer ugly, thought my car was like the ugly duckling or got smack with the dumb stick but now no longer . Hopefully next i will take the car to the dentist and rework them grills black. Probably should save more money up so i can re-spray car ie that front bumper. But one step at a time.

[mimalmo]

You will need to host the pictures on Photobucket or similar website and then enter the URL here using the pic insert tool (icon next to the globe).

[pyreguy]

Good job! There is no excuse for an imperfect roundel!


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

[Mtnman]

I like it. The respray of the mesh is easy. I do it about once a year. pop that sucker our and hit it with some flat black. easiest in warm weather. If you need help, let me know. Ive written about it before, but forgot where.

[MrMaico]

I like it. The respray of the mesh is easy. I do it about once a year. pop that sucker our and hit it with some flat black. easiest in warm weather. If you need help, let me know. Ive written about it before, but forgot where.

I would sure appreciate a DIY on getting the mesh grille out without having to remove the bumper David. Unless it's different on a 4 door (looks a bit different on realoem) I just don't see how there is any room to get it out......or in even. If you decide to post something in the DIY section please mention it here too so I don't miss it.



Damn, that a/c condenser looks rough up close!

Thanks....Barry

[Mtnman]

Barry,
You have to pop it towards the radiator. Push hard and fast at each attachment point. There are about 8 or 10 points where it is held to the bumper. The mesh, and the solid plastic piece behind it are connected together, so they will push backwards together, and need to be removed together. THis is easier when it is warm, or make sure your car is in a warm garage, or put a heater blowing on the plastic for half an hour or so so it is supple. once it has been disconnected from the bumper, try to wedge it as far to the drivers side as you can. It will go over farther than you think. once it is all the way over to the drivers side, you should have enough area to slide your hand in on the passenger side, and bend the piece of solid black plastic enough to start it coming out of the bumper. Once you get there, you're done! It took me an hour the first time i did it because I was scared as hell to break something. Hope that helps. If it doesnt, or you need more details, pm me. I get them on my phone, and i can pm you my phone number if we need to talk you through it.

Best of luck.

[MrMaico]

The mesh, and the solid plastic piece behind it are connected together, so they will push backwards together, and need to be removed together.

Thanks David, got it now. That's the thing that was throwing me off. I assumed that back 'adapter' stayed in place. I'll have to give it a try when it warms up some more. I was thinking about doing it like Marcus does and painting it in place with a brush but after seeing that pic of mine I'd like to paint the adapter too.

Thanks again....Barry

[DirtyPillows]

So for my next venture i shall be participating in an autox. Now what i need the ZHPMafia family to help me with is to enter this event and finish it without breaking something. What that means is im looking to make sure my current suspension is not all messed up and to fix parts where need be. Hopefully i wont have to change my actual springs and shocks but what im concerned is everything else, i.e. bushing, control arms, ball joints and what not. At best i wish if someone who knows about bimmers in the Maryland area can take a look at my car(not looking to spend money for mechanic to tell me some i can figure out by asking you guys) but if not ill have to do with taking pics and what not. So in your guy's professional opinion what are key things to look out for in my suspension. Things that may be already weak in a 80k car. As i have no info on what has been done to the car previous my purchase. Thanks for your guy's help.

Dirty

[danewilson77]

Few guys in your area.....I'm always here as a backup, if you want a lil drive brutha..

Droid! Srs Legitness!

[jvr826]

If you have the original front control arm bushings at 80k, you're probably due for new ones. I have seen DIYs posted here recently, quite easy to do yourself. A visual inspection is valid, but replacing them anyway is a good thing to do at that mileage. If they're just ugly and not making any weird handling or noises, then they won't ruin your fun.

Springs and shocks should be OK for another 10k-20k miles, then shocks likely. You can inspect them for leaks now. Even if they are leaking, they won't prevent you from enjoying your first autocross experience either.

Check the rear shock mount at the top, inside trunk, under trim panels on either side. They are prone to premature failure. There are upgraded parts available from some tuner sites (bimmerworld, turner, etc) that are much more beefy and very simple to install. In fact, if you're going to inspect them, you may as well order new ones and just replace them while you're in there looking at them. Getting access is most of the hassle.

Check the rear swaybar bushing mounts, they can fail. I've had mine beefed up cuz I beat, er, use my car for it's intended purpose. No issues even with 30+ track days and 15 or so autocrosses. I had it at a shop for some welding work and just had them do it while it was there.

I highly recommend the Sock Mod to prevent your p/s reservoir from spewing all over your nice clean engine. Check the level and make sure it's correct, if low, add ATF to top it off. If you don't know the history of it, change it. DIYs around for that too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1pzRJMwRx0

Other than those things... if your car is driving fine and not making any weird clanking noises, you should be good to go. Be sure to torque lug bolts when you get to the event. If you don't have a torque wrench, someone around you certainly will. Make sure to pump up your tires some, 38-40psi. Stock suspension has very little negative camber up front and you'll roll over the sidewall of your tires if the pressure is too low. You can ask others with similar car/tires what they run and adjust yours. I like to show up with too much air and let some out... that way I don't have to dink around with a pump to add air, easier to remove it.

Your engine may tick (lifters) after a few runs, but it will go away on the drive home. Top up the motor oil so it's at or just above the full line. It's OK to run a little more. Even tho I do this, mine still ticks... it's a feature of the E36 and E46 and freaks out first timers. It's normal.