What did you do for your ZHP/ BMW / MINI today? #2

[danewilson77]

Yep. I'd just do a clean and inspect if the noise is bad enough.

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[Vas]

Will do

[LivesNearCostco]

I've had pebbles get stuck between brake rotor shield and rotor, making funny scraping noises. Sometimes going into reverse clears it out. Sometimes I push the shield back (inward) with a socket extension and the pebble falls out. But this is only if you get noise while rolling slowly, not for noise when applying brakes.

Yeah the upper and lower ones that need to be removed to pull the pads out. Thinking of cleaning the area with a wire brush, brake cleaner and applying new grease maybe?

[LivesNearCostco]

Nothing today but...

• Wednesday night: Drop exhaust and diff, fight for hours with rear diff bushing, whose shell got welded to subframe in 2 spots in a previous subframe repair
• Thursday night remove all four control arms, learned to use hydraulic press, replaced 5 bushings and ball joints (3 replaced previously in driveway). Bent and wrecked some threaded rod and 1/2" bolts.
• Friday, took day off from work. Lowered subframe 1" to inspect--Ran out of time to remove subframe and replace bushings. Put car back together.
• Friday afternoon, go to urgent care for sick child. Doctor says it's a normal cold or flu, no worries for me but lots of worries for my wife.
• Friday night drive to race track.
• Saturday and Sunday: Drive with Porsche club at Thunderhill, some sessions in rain.
• Monday: Back to work!

Best news: No visible cracks around subframe mounting points.

Hardest part: removing rear diff bushing. My Home Depot puller popped the rubber core out easily, but the shell was stuck in really good with two spot welds. I started cutting it from inside with recip saw, but broke my one blade and had left other blades and hacksaw at home. Went to work with pneumatic die grinder, hammer and chisel, like a dwarven smith from Lord of the Rings (except he also used fire and didn't work on BMWs)

2nd hardest : getting rear swaybar back in correctly, specifically the links didn't want to bolt up to the upper control arms.

Most tedious part was loosening and tightening the half-shaft torx bolts. Tighten two, release hand brake, rotate half-shaft, set hand-brake, tighten two, repeat. Then other side. Then driveshaft.

Dumbest move: Upon reinstall, bolted diff fully in place before reconnecting driveshaft. Then it didn't want to fit even after dropping the CSB! Had to loosen diff and lower subframe a little to squeeze it back in.

Biggest disappointment: Running out of time to drop subframe. If I'd just disconnected e-brake cables and and wheel speed/brake sensor wires, then hung the brake calipers out of the way, I probably could have lowered the whole subframe on Wednesday night then removed the rear diff bushing much more easily and replaced my subframe bushings in the same total amount of garage time.

Upgrade: Replaced outer lower bushings with ball joints, M3 style. Diff bushings are now AKG 95A poly.

Tool save: Cross-threaded left lower control arm bolt. Garage had a thread restorer kit (almost like tap and die). Removed bad threads on bolt with triangular file, then used thread restorer and all fixed.

Hindsight is 20-20: Rear control arm bushings and ball joints were in pretty good shape. Not sure any of them really needed replacement. Glad I learned how to take it apart and do it, but on a cost/benefit basis it was a bad move (whereas rear diff bushing was cracked and needed replacement).

[das boots]

Cleaned and rubbed leather conditioner the interior. Put extra conditioners to the rear head rests. Since they are more exposed to the sun. Interior smells like new.

[johnrando]

Good stuff both!

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[stephenkirsh]

It's here!


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Woot!

My dad and I were looking to use this. Hope it goes well.

[stephenkirsh]

Nothing today but...

• Wednesday night: Drop exhaust and diff, fight for hours with rear diff bushing, whose shell got welded to subframe in 2 spots in a previous subframe repair
• Thursday night remove all four control arms, learned to use hydraulic press, replaced 5 bushings and ball joints (3 replaced previously in driveway). Bent and wrecked some threaded rod and 1/2" bolts.
• Friday, took day off from work. Lowered subframe 1" to inspect--Ran out of time to remove subframe and replace bushings. Put car back together.
• Friday afternoon, go to urgent care for sick child. Doctor says it's a normal cold or flu, no worries for me but lots of worries for my wife.
• Friday night drive to race track.
• Saturday and Sunday: Drive with Porsche club at Thunderhill, some sessions in rain.
• Monday: Back to work!

Best news: No visible cracks around subframe mounting points.

Hardest part: removing rear diff bushing. My Home Depot puller popped the rubber core out easily, but the shell was stuck in really good with two spot welds. I started cutting it from inside with recip saw, but broke my one blade and had left other blades and hacksaw at home. Went to work with pneumatic die grinder, hammer and chisel, like a dwarven smith from Lord of the Rings (except he also used fire and didn't work on BMWs)

2nd hardest : getting rear swaybar back in correctly, specifically the links didn't want to bolt up to the upper control arms.

Most tedious part was loosening and tightening the half-shaft torx bolts. Tighten two, release hand brake, rotate half-shaft, set hand-brake, tighten two, repeat. Then other side. Then driveshaft.

Dumbest move: Upon reinstall, bolted diff fully in place before reconnecting driveshaft. Then it didn't want to fit even after dropping the CSB! Had to loosen diff and lower subframe a little to squeeze it back in.

Biggest disappointment: Running out of time to drop subframe. If I'd just disconnected e-brake cables and and wheel speed/brake sensor wires, then hung the brake calipers out of the way, I probably could have lowered the whole subframe on Wednesday night then removed the rear diff bushing much more easily and replaced my subframe bushings in the same total amount of garage time.

Upgrade: Replaced outer lower bushings with ball joints, M3 style. Diff bushings are now AKG 95A poly.

Tool save: Cross-threaded left lower control arm bolt. Garage had a thread restorer kit (almost like tap and die). Removed bad threads on bolt with triangular file, then used thread restorer and all fixed.

Hindsight is 20-20: Rear control arm bushings and ball joints were in pretty good shape. Not sure any of them really needed replacement. Glad I learned how to take it apart and do it, but on a cost/benefit basis it was a bad move (whereas rear diff bushing was cracked and needed replacement).

PCA huh? Which chapter? PCA autocrosses at the same place as my club (Santa Rosa/ Sonoma County Airport.). I'll have to see if they're open to non-Porsches doing autox with them

[Hermes]

Passenger mirror delete









Euro wide angle lens for drivers side

[Johal E32]

Wow, E21 looks mean.

I ordered new wiper blades and tie rods for the wagon. Should be set for awhile, I'm just going to enjoy it as it should be perfect or near perfect at that point.

Friday, I plan to head to tire ship and re- balance front wheels. Next week, do tie rods and get the car aligned. Install OEM E46 M3 xenon ballast cover, clean ICV and clean TB.

Might head to body shop next week and respray rear bumper too but idk, thats a lot to do. LOL