Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
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  1. #1961
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    St. Paul, Minnesota
    Posts
    494
    Quote Originally Posted by az3579 View Post
    Somehow I missed that you said you're only buying fronts. For fronts, you could do et35 all day with no problem. Oops
    The rears are usually the wheels to give problems with clearance, but you're already set on that so all's well.
    Ha no worries, thanks!

    18x9 ET 42 Apex EC-7's / BC Racing BR Type Coilovers / GruppeM Intake
    ECS SS Brake Lines / Coby Wheel Wrap w/ Tri-Stitch / 35% Tint / BavSound Stage 1 / Stett Intake Boots / OE Euro Clears

  2. #1962
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,324
    I'm working to put my BMW Performance intake into my car and I'm running into some trouble. The tab next to the expansion tank describing the proper coolant levels (pictured below) is too tall and blocking the top intake funnel. The official installation instructions from BMW (attached) state in step 3 "Installing Performance Air Cleaner System" in the second box to "Unclip tab (1)." For the life of me I cannot figure out how to remove it. Does anyone know how?

    Tab next to the expansion tank cap, supposedly removable:


    BMW Installation Instructions:
    E46 BMW Perf Cold Air Instr.pdf

    EDIT:
    Nevermind, that sucker just needed a good yanking.

  3. #1963
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    18,061
    Yes, it just slides of IIRC.
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  4. #1964
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,324
    New problem! When I originally had a PPI for my car back at the end of March, the mechanic found "a light clicking nose from the rear of the car possible driveline CV." It was faint at that time but now it's become more prominent so I would like to fix it. I'm assuming from the description the mechanic meant one of the rear CV joints, but maybe he meant where the driveshaft meets the differential? Rooting around the interwebs the alternate possibilities seem to be worn differential bushings or the subframe bushings. Any alternative thoughts? I tried getting the sound caught on my phone, but the mic just isn't good enough.

  5. #1965

    The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    New problem! When I originally had a PPI for my car back at the end of March, the mechanic found "a light clicking nose from the rear of the car possible driveline CV." It was faint at that time but now it's become more prominent so I would like to fix it. I'm assuming from the description the mechanic meant one of the rear CV joints, but maybe he meant where the driveshaft meets the differential? Rooting around the interwebs the alternate possibilities seem to be worn differential bushings or the subframe bushings. Any alternative thoughts? I tried getting the sound caught on my phone, but the mic just isn't good enough.

    Not sure if ur talking about the same sort of issue I had but hope this helps

    http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14053


    To summarize, it was the diff bushings (all 3)... It is easy to inspect the big carrier bushing at the back of the diff, but the 2 small ones at the front are not that easy to inspect...

    But unfortunately replacing the bushings did not cure the clunk... Took it to an Indy shop and the mechanic said it is most likely the driver side rear axle as it has some slight ply in it... Haven't replaced it yet...


    Also the link I posted was my first post on the zhpmafia website so ul see that I asked a lot of stupid questions...

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by san; 07-16-2015 at 02:31 AM.


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  6. #1966
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    2,974
    Any recommendations on diff bushings? Not sure I wanna go poly. Turner uses myle HD. Are those any good?

    My number one concern is durability. I don't want to have to do this again in 75k.


    His: 05 330 ZHP Imola Red - 07 Z4 M Coupe Imola Red
    Hers: 04 330i ZSP
    2004 325 M56 Steel Blue Metallic - Sold
    Stephen's DD & AutoX/HPDE Build Thread
    Stewart WP - Z4M LCAB - M3 trans/motor mounts - DICE MediageBridge Duo - ARC-8 17x8.5"
    DrVANOS - Mason Engineering Race Strut Bar - E30 Exp. Cap - Custom Black+Beige Interior - M3 Seats
    Bilstein PSS10 - Turner Sway Bars 27/21 - ECST RTAB Limiters - R.E. RSM


  7. #1967
    I went with lemforder


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  8. #1968
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,324
    Quote Originally Posted by san View Post
    Not sure if ur talking about the same sort of issue I had but hope this helps

    http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14053


    To summarize, it was the diff bushings (all 3)... It is easy to inspect the big carrier bushing at the back of the diff, but the 2 small ones at the front are not that easy to inspect...

    But unfortunately replacing the bushings did not cure the clunk... Took it to an Indy shop and the mechanic said it is most likely the driver side rear axle as it has some slight ply in it... Haven't replaced it yet...


    Also the link I posted was my first post on the zhpmafia website so ul see that I asked a lot of stupid questions...

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the link. After reading through the replies it seems like it could be a handful of things, the differential bushings being the most likely culprit. I seem to recall from talking with the mechanic during my PPI that it might have been a rear drive shaft bearing issue (I assume the rear hooks up to the differential in a similar fashion to the transmission up front, but I don't know for sure). Sorry to hear replacing the bushings didn't help you any. Still haven't fixed the clunk?

    I have included two videos that have the clunking sound:

    1. I am engaging the clutch and then disengaging the clutch in reverse:
    https://streamable.com/l570

    2. I am engaging the clutch, disengaging, then finally pulling away in first:
    https://streamable.com/odtp

    Quote Originally Posted by stephenkirsh View Post
    Any recommendations on diff bushings? Not sure I wanna go poly. Turner uses myle HD. Are those any good?

    My number one concern is durability. I don't want to have to do this again in 75k.
    Wish I could help, but I know even less about diff bushings than the the Greeks understand how they got in their debt crisis. My gut suggestion would be M3 bushings to increase durability over ours, but I wouldn't know how much longer they'd last.

  9. #1969
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    Thanks for the link. After reading through the replies it seems like it could be a handful of things, the differential bushings being the most likely culprit. I seem to recall from talking with the mechanic during my PPI that it might have been a rear drive shaft bearing issue (I assume the rear hooks up to the differential in a similar fashion to the transmission up front, but I don't know for sure). Sorry to hear replacing the bushings didn't help you any. Still haven't fixed the clunk?

    I have included two videos that have the clunking sound:

    1. I am engaging the clutch and then disengaging the clutch in reverse:
    https://streamable.com/l570

    2. I am engaging the clutch, disengaging, then finally pulling away in first:
    https://streamable.com/odtp



    Wish I could help, but I know even less about diff bushings than the the Greeks understand how they got in their debt crisis. My gut suggestion would be M3 bushings to increase durability over ours, but I wouldn't know how much longer they'd last.
    That sounds like diff bushing to me... But can never be certain until u inspect it... Shouldn't take u more than 15-20 min... All u need to do is to jack up the rear of the car and try to inspect it visually...

    Replacing the diff bushing on mine helped decrease the clunk a little but not did not eliminate it completely... Indy mechanic said it's probably the driver side axle with a a bad cv joint as it has slight ply in it... Haven't replaced it yet...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  10. #1970
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    29
    Is this the mic at the top of the picture already installed? Do all of our cars have this? If not, why would this be in there unplugged? Looking at installing oem bluetooth because useless buttons drive me crazy! Will be tearing into trunk when I have more time to investigate. Name:  20150716_184546.jpg
Views: 266
Size:  2.85 MB

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