Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
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Results 17,171 to 17,180 of 26305
  1. #17171
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    3,593
    Other pipe is the stock resonator.

    I have stock headers.
    --Trevor--
    Vancouver, BC

  2. #17172
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Austin TX
    Posts
    7,927
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    That's quite the list. Good stuff!
    Thanks. I feel bad, all my attention goes to the ZHP. Finally I decided it was the Mini's turn !

    Quote Originally Posted by 330i Lover View Post
    All this in 1 day? You go boy!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    Yeah, all in one day. My Indy is very quick. I just noticed one thing after the repairs: the "check your gas cap" warning goes on and off. I will go back if it continues.

  3. #17173
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,079
    Working on the upper/lower balljoints/bushings on the trailing arm. Got one ball joint out and new one in without too much drama. Was working on the lower bushing, but it's apparently too seized in there and I managed to shear the fully threaded bolt in the Koch toolset.

    For reference, it appears to be a M12x1.75x140mm bolt made of stainless steel (A2-70). I ordered a Class 10.9 steel bolt as a replacement which should be a bit stronger. Hopefully that works.

  4. #17174
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    grease the crap out of the new bolt and put some heat on the flange that the ball joint is in....
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  5. #17175
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    3,593
    I just purchased new bolts and nuts at 10.8 for the exhaust. Will those be strong enough for weather and heat?
    --Trevor--
    Vancouver, BC

  6. #17176
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,079
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    grease the crap out of the new bolt and put some heat on the flange that the ball joint is in....
    Yeah I did grease the crap out of the bolt, but I guess I'll have to get some heat there too. Was hoping to avoid that with the limited clearance and maneuverability under there

    Quote Originally Posted by Rovert View Post
    I just purchased new bolts and nuts at 10.8 for the exhaust. Will those be strong enough for weather and heat?
    I would go stainless for exhaust bolts and nuts if possible

  7. #17177
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Waterloo, ON
    Posts
    6,083
    Quote Originally Posted by terraphantm View Post
    Working on the upper/lower balljoints/bushings on the trailing arm. Got one ball joint out and new one in without too much drama. Was working on the lower bushing, but it's apparently too seized in there and I managed to shear the fully threaded bolt in the Koch toolset.
    wowzers. that is seized! i removed all of those ball joints and every bushing in the rear end with that tool, no issues. what were you pressing with on the other side? also, i sprayed both outer bushing/ball joint casings with PB Blaster (the old units), before pressing them out with the koch tool.
    peter

    2004 330i ZHP
    2005 330iT ZHP
    2010 328iT M Sport
    2012 128i M Sport

  8. #17178
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,079
    Quote Originally Posted by slater View Post
    wowzers. that is seized! i removed all of those ball joints and every bushing in the rear end with that tool, no issues. what were you pressing with on the other side? also, i sprayed both outer bushing/ball joint casings with PB Blaster (the old units), before pressing them out with the koch tool.
    Well I was just using the fittings mentioned on the instruction sheet, and was cranking against that assembly with a lot of force before the bolt ended up shearing. Did spray it in PB blaster overnight. Might try some more (or just nut up and heat it with a torch).

  9. #17179
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Waterloo, ON
    Posts
    6,083
    Quote Originally Posted by terraphantm View Post
    Well I was just using the fittings mentioned on the instruction sheet, and was cranking against that assembly with a lot of force before the bolt ended up shearing. Did spray it in PB blaster overnight. Might try some more (or just nut up and heat it with a torch).
    odd. here's how i did it - the part circled in red is from a universal bearing driver set i had - it matched the OD of the old bushing:
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    peter

    2004 330i ZHP
    2005 330iT ZHP
    2010 328iT M Sport
    2012 128i M Sport

  10. #17180
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,079
    Your's looks a good bit different than the one I'm using. This is what I'm using:

    https://youtu.be/Zl_LJVTAFkY

    Though now that I look closer, seems like the bolts were already replaced with generics once before (I borrowed the toolset from someone on m3forum)

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