Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
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  1. #3281
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    166
    I've done some research, and am confused as to the battery I need to purchase for my car. It seems like the most recommended battery, Duralast 49DL, is no longer available.

    I'm planning on getting one from Pepboys, because they have 35% off on batteries right now (plus it's Bosch, which may have been OEM)? The parts finder on their website shows a Group 94R regular lead/acid battery and an H7 AGM battery as fitting. However, I also read that the Bosch 49-850B may work.

    Opinions and experiences?


    2004 Jet Black Sedan

    Euro Mirrors, WeatherTech Floor Liners, Tinted Windows, Aluminum Water Pump Pulley, Etc.

  2. #3282
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    IIRC Interstate is now making OEM replacement batteries for BMW
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  3. #3283
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,079
    Pretty much all batteries world wide are made by one of three (or so) manufacturers. Originals were made by Varta. I think in the US replacement batteries tend to be East Penn (Deka) or Exide.

  4. #3284
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    San Diego County
    Posts
    6
    In my (many) years of buying batteries, for cars, trucks, and motorcycles...batteries are batteries. There is the occasional "defective" battery that does not last, however most batteries these days come with a replacement warranty that should cover the "defective" period. FYI, I located an Exide battery (L3/48X) that is showing as being sold at a Home Depot near me for $109. I paid more than that for my motorcycle battery.

  5. #3285
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    IIRC Interstate is now making OEM replacement batteries for BMW
    Sorry it's Exide... I looked at my battery
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  6. #3286
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    166
    Thanks for all the replies on batteries! My current battery is an Advance Auto Titanium with a production date of Aug. 2007.


    2004 Jet Black Sedan

    Euro Mirrors, WeatherTech Floor Liners, Tinted Windows, Aluminum Water Pump Pulley, Etc.

  7. #3287
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    1,163
    I usually get the low engine oil level warning (amber light) in between oil changes (4000Kms - 6000Kms after an oil change), which is quote normal due to minor oil leaks etc. Since I had not received one in quite a while, I decided to check the oil level manually and I found the level to be lower than even the minimum mark on the dipstick. Ofcourse I topped it up with 5W30 BMW LL engine oil I had lying around.

    Question: Has anybody experienced the oil level sensor to go bad in a way where the low level warning does not light up anymore? I have read on various other forums that usually when the sensor is dying, it would light up amber after the car has been started...I never experienced that.

    It would only ever warn me about low level by lighting up for about 15 seconds after I turn off my car. Right now when I turn the key to position 2, the light comes on amber for a second and then followed by red and once I turn the engine on, it switches off.

    Any tips would be awesome!
    anandoc

    2004 330i auto | ZPP, ZCW | Schwarz 2 (668) | schwarz (N6SW)

    aFe Stage-1 Pro DRY S intake | Morimoto FX-R 3.0 retrofit | ///M3 Seats (power, heat, bolster adj.) | ///M3 Strut Brace | ///M3 SMG Steering Wheel retrofit | OEM Alarm retrofit | GROM USB | Khoalty angel eyes


  8. #3288
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,079
    Anyone know if the hole for the coolant drain plug the M54 has a raised lip? Can't decide if what I'm seeing is a washer stuck to the block or if I lost the washer somewhere and I'm actually trying to remove part of the block itself.

  9. #3289
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Redondo Beach, CA
    Posts
    1,944
    Not entirely certain what you're asking but the bung between cylinders 1&2 for coolant plug is on a curved surface so it would have to have a machined flat surface.
    2006 CiC 6MT
    ZHP, Cold Weather, Xenon
    Sapphire Black / Black Leather / Black Cube

  10. #3290
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    1,079
    Am I looking at a stuck washer here (sure looks like it to me), and if so, anyone have any tips for how to get it off? Prying at it just marred the surface


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