William's 330Ci ZHP Maintenance and Project Thread

[Sreten]

Just make sure both surfaces are clean before assembly and it should be okay. I always thoroughly clean grooves in the valve cover as well. Shop towels and lots of break cleaner.

[BMWCurves]

Just make sure both surfaces are clean before assembly and it should be okay. I always thoroughly clean grooves in the valve cover as well. Shop towels and lots of break cleaner.

Roger roger. Good advice!

[slater]

Question: The mechanic suggested replacing also the valve cover itself as well because it is plastic and warps with age (part no. 11127512839). Has anyone experienced this?

as sreten mentioned above, it doesn't warp - it does weaken after so many heat cycles and ambient temp fluctuations over the years, and what that means it is prone to cracking; it does this around the spark plug wells, and it does this because of too much positive crankcase pressure.... i.e., a clogged CCV. had this happen on my ZHP, and i replaced the valve cover. they ain't cheap - think it was around $350.

on your car with so few miles, it's probably fine for a good long while. how is your CCV?

Just make sure both surfaces are clean before assembly and it should be okay. I always thoroughly clean grooves in the valve cover as well. Shop towels and lots of break cleaner.

+1 on the brake cleaner and shop towels. you may need to chase the head's valve cover mating surface with a razor blade if the brake cleaner isn't cutting it.

oh, and have the torque specs and tightening sequence of the VC bolts handy.

[anandoc]

as sreten mentioned above, it doesn't warp - it does weaken after so many heat cycles and ambient temp fluctuations over the years, and what that means it is prone to cracking; it does this around the spark plug wells, and it does this because of too much positive crankcase pressure.... i.e., a clogged CCV. had this happen on my ZHP, and i replaced the valve cover. they ain't cheap - think it was around $350.

on your car with so few miles, it's probably fine for a good long while. how is your CCV?




+1 on the brake cleaner and shop towels. you may need to chase the head's valve cover mating surface with a razor blade if the brake cleaner isn't cutting it.

oh, and have the torque specs and tightening sequence of the VC bolts handy.

Slater is the resident expert on Valve Covers and VCGs. He did a uber-fantastic job on mine

[Sreten]

Good tip on the razor blade. On my last ZHP someone used a lot of sealant all around and it took some work to get everything off.

I personally never use a torque wrench for valve covers. I just tighten them down in alternating criss-cross pattern and you can feel with your hand when the nut hits the end and can't go further. But, there's nothing wrong in using proper torque specs.

[BMWCurves]

as sreten mentioned above, it doesn't warp - it does weaken after so many heat cycles and ambient temp fluctuations over the years, and what that means it is prone to cracking; it does this around the spark plug wells, and it does this because of too much positive crankcase pressure.... i.e., a clogged CCV. had this happen on my ZHP, and i replaced the valve cover. they ain't cheap - think it was around $350.

on your car with so few miles, it's probably fine for a good long while. how is your CCV?

I have no idea the state of my CCV. My car has low miles as you know, but most trips are usually under 20 minutes so I assume it's not in the best condition.

+1 on the brake cleaner and shop towels. you may need to chase the head's valve cover mating surface with a razor blade if the brake cleaner isn't cutting it.

oh, and have the torque specs and tightening sequence of the VC bolts handy.

Preference on brake cleaner brand? I just realized our old can from the early 2000s recently emptied out.

Slater is the resident expert on Valve Covers and VCGs. He did a uber-fantastic job on mine

So I've seen/heard/tasted(?). Although it's hard to trust a man who doesn't immediately swap a ready-to-go M54B30 engine into an available touring body. smh

Good tip on the razor blade. On my last ZHP someone used a lot of sealant all around and it took some work to get everything off.

I personally never use a torque wrench for valve covers. I just tighten them down in alternating criss-cross pattern and you can feel with your hand when the nut hits the end and can't go further. But, there's nothing wrong in using proper torque specs.

Ah the old "tighten to won't-fall-off" ft-lbs of torque.

[Sreten]

I use a torque wrench for just about everything else.

They simply bottom out and come to a complete stop, if you tighten any more past this point will just rip the bolt off.
That's how most people end up breaking them by reading a wrong torque spec and over-torquing them.

[slater]

Slater is the resident expert on Valve Covers and VCGs. He did a uber-fantastic job on mine

thanks dude!

I have no idea the state of my CCV. My car has low miles as you know, but most trips are usually under 20 minutes so I assume it's not in the best condition.

if you pull the plastic hose end off where it connect at the front corner of the VC, and have a peek inside.... that will tell you a lot. if there's mayo goop, you should replace. now, that said, it's summer and there likely won't be any, but it's worth a check.

Preference on brake cleaner brand? I just realized our old can from the early 2000s recently emptied out.

doesn't matter, really. whatever you can find at your FLAPs.

So I've seen/heard/tasted(?). Although it's hard to trust a man who doesn't immediately swap a ready-to-go M54B30 engine into an available touring body. smh

ha, oh man... nice one.

aaaaand to think i did have TWO M54B30's here ready to go in TWO Touring bodies! for shame.... hahahaha.

Ah the old "tighten to won't-fall-off" ft-lbs of torque.

They simply bottom out and come to a complete stop, if you tighten any more past this point will just rip the bolt off.
That's how most people end up breaking them by reading a wrong torque spec and over-torquing them.

yep, exactly. i think the torque spec is something like 7lb-ft or something, but they do hit that stopping point then - if you use new grommets then the wee about of torque will hold the VC down a lot better.

[danewilson77]

Gracias, hombre.

I figured I'd chance it and just do the VCG and VANOS stuff, and if it starts leaking again, consider the valve cover.

I have 230K on mine with no warpage. Plus that VCG is pretty beefy and would still seal well with any small warping that may occur. I do not support his claim.

Sent from my S8+

[Sockethead]

When I did my valve cover gasket, I started torquing to spec but it didn't "feel" right so I did the rest by hand... That was 90k ago
FYI most ft pound torque wrenches can't accurately torque to a setting that low unless specifically design for lower settings