Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
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  1. #4881
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Waterloo, ON
    Posts
    6,086
    Quote Originally Posted by 704sw View Post
    I thought I paid pretty close attention, but I'm not saying it's impossible I effed up during the clock spring replacement.
    there's a line etched in both the splined shaft, and the wheel - did you see those? just 'em up and you're good.

    did you make any other suspension changes?

    i just replaced the tie rod assemblies in the black Touring last night and the steering wheel, even though i did my best to adjust the new units to be exactly the same length as the old ones, is still pointing to about 10 o'clock.
    peter

    2004 330i ZHP
    2005 330iT ZHP
    2010 328iT M Sport
    2012 128i M Sport

  2. #4882
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    3,650
    Quote Originally Posted by slater View Post
    there's a line etched in both the splined shaft, and the wheel - did you see those? just 'em up and you're good.

    did you make any other suspension changes?

    i just replaced the tie rod assemblies in the black Touring last night and the steering wheel, even though i did my best to adjust the new units to be exactly the same length as the old ones, is still pointing to about 10 o'clock.
    Yep, I lined them up! Unless I'm going blind...

    So far I've done: Koni yellows, Lemmy FCAs (reused the FCABs you put in), tie rods, 26mm M3 coupe front bar, 20mm xi rear bar.

    My to-do list now is: H&R front springs (I put rears in last weekend, FCP delivers new upper front perches tomorrow so maybe this weekend), TC Kline camber plates/hats, adjustable rear control arms, upper/lower inner/outer rear arm bushings, adjustable end links.

    I bought some UUC adjustable rear links, but they're designed for aftermarket sway bars, not OEM. Kind of a bummer, but that's life.
    Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual

    Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
    M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots

    Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors

  3. #4883
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,323
    Quote Originally Posted by 704sw View Post
    Yep, I lined them up! Unless I'm going blind...

    So far I've done: Koni yellows, Lemmy FCAs (reused the FCABs you put in), tie rods, 26mm M3 coupe front bar, 20mm xi rear bar.

    My to-do list now is: H&R front springs (I put rears in last weekend, FCP delivers new upper front perches tomorrow so maybe this weekend), TC Kline camber plates/hats, adjustable rear control arms, upper/lower inner/outer rear arm bushings, adjustable end links.

    I bought some UUC adjustable rear links, but they're designed for aftermarket sway bars, not OEM. Kind of a bummer, but that's life.
    Do you need adjustable end links for either of those OEM sway bars in our coupes?

  4. #4884
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    3,650
    Quote Originally Posted by BMWCurves View Post
    Do you need adjustable end links for either of those OEM sway bars in our coupes?
    You should use adjustable links to remove preload if the car is lowered. The H&R sport springs aren't very low, and I admittedly would probably be fine without. But, I plan on getting her on a track next year, so I'd rather do it right.

    You're on factory springs, yes? If so then you have no worries that I see.
    Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual

    Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
    M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots

    Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors

  5. #4885
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    10,323
    Quote Originally Posted by 704sw View Post
    You should use adjustable links to remove preload if the car is lowered. The H&R sport springs aren't very low, and I admittedly would probably be fine without. But, I plan on getting her on a track next year, so I'd rather do it right.

    You're on factory springs, yes? If so then you have no worries that I see.
    Ah, okay. Makes sense to me. I just glossed over the H&R springs on your list of things to do.

  6. #4886
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    Yea if you ever get a UUC rear swaybar, you have to use those links.
    Probably already been mentioned somewhere...When you install the Koni Yellows there is no nub to align the strut in the steering knuckle so you have to spend a little extra time to figure that out...
    I have H&R sport springs and my car is pretty darn low....
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  7. #4887
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    807
    Need someone to weigh in on this; when you're driving and you come to a stop sign... is it more fuel efficient to come to a complete stop and start in 1st gear from the stop, or to come to a very low roll then get through in second gear? Asking for a friend


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    2004 BMW 330i TiAg ZHP/// 6MT(purchased from forum 6/06/16);
    KONI Yellows | Akebono Brake Pads | ECIS cold air intake system;
    Hotchkis Sport sway bar | ECS Tuning Carbon Fiber front strut brace
    Vibrant Performance Muffler | Coby Wheel Tri-Stitch steering wheel & shift boot
    Michelin PSS | Blizzak WS-80

  8. #4888
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Chicago area
    Posts
    1,920
    I would guess on rolling through, as stopping takes longer and wastes more energy.

  9. #4889
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Branford, CT
    Posts
    16,055
    Rolling through uses less fuel.
    BP
    2005 330i ZHP / 6MT
    Imolarot / Naturbraun
    2003 330iT / 6MT
    Orientblau / Naturbraun




    It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it.

  10. #4890
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    1,268
    Quote Originally Posted by Prestovie View Post
    ... is it more fuel efficient to come to a complete stop and start in 1st gear from the stop, or to come to a very low roll then get through in second gear?
    It might be more cost effective to stop at a stop sign vs. risk a ticket for a moving violation, fines, points on your license & insurance premium increase.
    2006 330ci ZHP - Silbergrau Metallic / Stoff Laser/Anthrazit / Alu Black Cube trim / Adaptive Xenon headlights / HK hi-fi system / heated front seats

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