I forgot you had the turbo car... Yea, where your ZHP is at now is a good place to be... if you want boost, you just have to hop into the other car
Campieri
I forgot you had the turbo car... Yea, where your ZHP is at now is a good place to be... if you want boost, you just have to hop into the other car
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
Messaggero
Haha definitely. It's a stark difference when hopping out of the ZHP and into the 3S. With the ZHP the power is always there when I need it and I can play around a little. The 3S? Well.... That starts with "Is there anything ahead of me within the next mile", lol.
Sent from my P00I using Tapatalk
AFE stage 1 CAI, Silicone Stett Intake Boots, AA Headers and Exhaust, AA Tune, Cat Delete, Hicon GT Adjustable Coilovers, Quaife Helical LSD, EVO 3 SS Kit, UUC Organic Clutch w/ UUC LW Flywheel, GTR rep carbon fiber hood, CSL rep carbon fiber trunk, CDV delete, CP Forged Pistons & SP Forged Con Rods, MotoZ projector headlights, Sony bluetooth/touch nav, & lots of love
-Ben
Messaggero
Well done! I need to bookmark this in case it happens to me! BTW, I hate those bolts. The only ones I hate more are the rotor hold screws.Originally Posted by Fenrir
Well I was able to get to the bottom of that issue today. The old tension pully bolt was stripped. The T50 socket was biting enough to make it feel like it was torqued on. It wasn't. I pulled the old bolt and replaced it. No torque lets the whole assembly spin. So it squeaks.... Well it sounded more like a banshee.
Geewiz info for anyone replacing the hydraulic tension pully bolt. Skip every parts supplier out there. They'll want way more than the stock bolt is worth. Home Depot carries the same bolt in hardened steel for 98 cents for a pair.
It's an M10x25 8mm hex and fits perfectly. 98 cents vs 12 bucks from a supplier more than covers the fuel cost to pick it up locally. I think I'd be almost ashamed to admit how many automotive bolts I've replaced via local venues. And usually higher quality than stock.
Obvious OEM stripped bolt is obvious below.
Sent from the missing 10mm
-Jeff | '19 JGC WK2
Sold: '03 ZHP
"There is a straight six engine at the front, a manual gear box in the middle, and drive goes to the back. That's page one, chapter one from the petrolsexual handbook." - Jeremy Clarkson
Campieri
Those rotor screws.... once you get them off, put some antiseize on the threads. You never have a problem again
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
Messaggero
Haha thanks. And Socket is totally right about those rotor head screws.
Sent from the missing 10mm
AFE stage 1 CAI, Silicone Stett Intake Boots, AA Headers and Exhaust, AA Tune, Cat Delete, Hicon GT Adjustable Coilovers, Quaife Helical LSD, EVO 3 SS Kit, UUC Organic Clutch w/ UUC LW Flywheel, GTR rep carbon fiber hood, CSL rep carbon fiber trunk, CDV delete, CP Forged Pistons & SP Forged Con Rods, MotoZ projector headlights, Sony bluetooth/touch nav, & lots of love
-Ben
Big Earner
If you want I replaced with:
I find that the 17mm hex will take the pressure to release the tensioner and having a high grade bolt will not rust.
This was my car with the OEM bolt. Garbage. LOL.
And here’s a comparison. It’s exact length:
--Trevor--
Vancouver, BC
Campieri
That's just a plain zinc coating on that bolt but as long as you put the dust shield back on, it shouldn't be a rust problem for any bolt
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
Big Earner
Oh yeah. That was from my ZHP in 2013. Haha. Couldn’t find my pic for when I changed the M bolt. I think I went on the hunt for a better bolt.
--Trevor--
Vancouver, BC
Big Earner
Well I was hoping to knock out a small list item and install the front and rear strut tower bars that Spenser dropped off but...
Feck
Double feck
Need different nuts for the front and to pull the shocks for the rear. Reading the signs and putting the tools down now. Today is not a day for wrenching.
Enforcer
I ran into the same problem with my strut bar... used the following fasteners:
Stainless Steel 8mm Nut (Nylok), PN: 93625A300, ECS Tuning ES#10998, $1.95
Stainless Steel 8mm Washer 5/16", PN: 96659A107, ECS Tuning ES#10999, $1.95
Of course, you might very well find suitable fasteners at your local hardware store for a little less.
2004 BMW 330i ZHP (52k miles), Jet Black with black leather, MFactory LSD (3.38) with Z4 cover, 18"x8.5" ET38 APEX Arc-8's (Anthracite) with 245/40 Michelin PSS', Koni Sports with factory springs and front and rear reinforcement plates, Shark Injector, Corsa TSE3 cat-back exhaust, TMS under-driven pulleys (water & steering), CDV delete, TMS CF strut brace, K&N CAI, GAS DISA rebuild, TMS pedals, Wheelskins steering wheel cover, roller tray center console, black-out grilles, and WeatherTech mats
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