IMO I'd just replace it... who wants to take the door apart twice....
IMO I'd just replace it... who wants to take the door apart twice....
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
I don't even want to do it once. What are the tools required? I'm guessing it's not too bad of a DIY?
It's not bad - plastic trim tools, Torx driver, ratchet & sockets, razor blade, butyl caulk rope.
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=356847
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=939039
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...1#post28233751
http://regulatorfix.com/
Last edited by John in VA; 08-07-2018 at 04:33 PM.
2006 330ci ZHP - Silbergrau Metallic / Stoff Laser/Anthrazit / Alu Black Cube trim / Adaptive Xenon headlights / HK hi-fi system / heated front seats
Thanks
Are there any other parts needed other than the regulators?
FCP seems to have one of the lowest prices on the genuine regulators.
Purchasing from FCP will mean it's the last one you'll buy as long as they have the free replacement. I've been able to remove the vapor barrier without damaging it by using a single-edged razor blade to help separate it from the butyl caulk when stubborn. Heating the butyl caulk strip with a heat gun or hair dryer before pressing the barrier back into position will help the barrier re-adhere to the caulk.
2006 330ci ZHP - Silbergrau Metallic / Stoff Laser/Anthrazit / Alu Black Cube trim / Adaptive Xenon headlights / HK hi-fi system / heated front seats
Hey guys so.... my center support bearing decided to take a dump lol
I’m thinking I’ll be replacing 02 Sensors while I’m down there, but is there anything else I can do while I’m under there that I’m not thinking about?
AND.... ecstuning has a Univ. Flex Disc kit, am I better off just buying the support bearing and the guibo/flex disc and only replacing that?
Or is everything in there kit worth replacing?
Thanks in advance guys!
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...SABEgIjzPD_BwE
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Makes sense to do both while you have it apart.
on my old E39, i replaced the Guibo and had to pull it all back apart the do the support bearing 2 months later.
YELKOS - Lake Norman, NC
2006 330Ci ZHP, ZPP Vert. 6MT Mystic Blue / Grey Montana leather
purchased 8/23/17 w/ 92,000
Current Stable
2014 Audi A6 Premium Plus (wife's ride)
2005 Ford F-150 Lariat 4X4 (Daily Driver)
2006 Acura MDX Touring (Daughter's college car)
Deceased (Sold)
2006 Audi A6
1999 328I 5MT
1998 528I AT
I'd get the kit... you don't want to have to drop the drive shaft twice. That's the same kit I used a couple of months ago
The O2 sensors that matter are at the top og the manifolds and are removed under the hood. The secondary Os sensors are for catalytic converter function and rarely go bad...
Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
H&R sport springs, UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers
Is it possible to change the window regulator without having the airbag light come on? I think I read it's possible. The video I watched had the person using the regulator to get the window in the right position to get to the 2 screws/bolts, and then again when putting it back together. Is there a way to avoid that?