The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

[DeathTrap]

Damn, automatics are hard to drive!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

Seems pricey to me. I got this quote 2 years ago for $300 : "wash, paint decontamination, wheels cleaned, tires dressed, sealant applied. Includes stage one machine polishing to enhance gloss and remove light scratches."
My black Saab had some holograms, the above took care of it.

Sounds like better deals in TX - that's the rate here in the DC area for a light detail at a fancy car wash vs. true paint correction from a detailer. There are bargains out there, but too frequently you get what you pay for. For $900 you should be ecstatic with the results - that's still cheaper than some pros here.

[johnrando]

What is this automatic you guys speak of?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Newfangled invention.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[pedro2u]

I can't believe I'm in my late 60's and I'm Googling this for the background.... I'm really loving my 6MT now!

I'm not finding by Googling that anyone is suggesting putting the car in neutral before setting the handbrake, but it certainly seems like its the same thing. Most sites just say to set the handbrake and put it in Park. And I always thought that mechanically Neutral and Park were essentially equivalent with the exception that the Park positioned included the parking pawl to lock the drive train.

I'm sure both methods achieve the same result since the end result is being in Park (drive train locked) without any stress since the hand brake has locked the wheels via the braking system

[NYRhockey]

BP, this my sequence :

1- stop at designated spot, my foot is on brake pedal
2- put car in neutral
3- engage parking brake
4- release foot from brake pedal, verify car doesn't move
5- put car into Park

This is exactly what i do with an auto. Most of the time when i do this there’s no resistance the next time i shift out of P.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[johnrando]

I have an acquaintance looking to see is someone has a surplus zhp diff input flange?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[papa_g]

So I went under the car to investigate a periodic rubbing sound which increases in frequency with wheel speed, as well as a loud click sound whenever I brake or change gears between reverse and drive. From the things I’ve read, it sounded like it might be poorly positioned brake pads, so I examined them, but they look fine. Then I decided to look under the rear suspension and found this. Pretty much the same on the other side. Do I need to replace my diff? I am at 100k miles.
Attachment 35657

Hey, sorry to bring back this question, but I think I am more concerned about the actual leak at this point. Figured out this is the output flange that needs to be replaced. Thankfully it is on the passenger side (exhaust not in the way). Does anyone know any DIYs out there, I was not able to find any. Thanks

[ZHP_Brandon]

Anybody here from Texas? Got a line on a relatively cheap blower from ActiveAuto but want it inspected before pulling the trigger.

I’m also in contact with VFengineering to see if we could potentially get a group buy going here through this forum... hoping they say yes otherwise the Stage 1 active auto is mine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[fredo]

Austin TX here.

[rguti153]

Houston here

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk