Bad day for me. Long story short I told the machine shop I was going to collect my parts if they couldn’t finish it by tomorrow EOD. They gave me to the lead machinist and he said he wasn’t comfortable cutting any more material off the knuckle beyond what it rolled out of the factory with. Then he suggested a spacer under the rotor. I asked how that’d be with the wheel and he said he’d get it done. They said $500.
Then I call back because the thickness of the spacer we discussed could be thinner because the rotor was overspaced from the knuckle. Then he said I would lose hubcentricity if I had any spacer over 3mm. Then he said he would remove 2mm from the caliper, 2mm from the knuckle, and add a 2mm spacer to get the caliper to sit in the right position. Quoted $1k. So I said nah, obviously.
I’m not an engineer at all, but I’d be surprised if this genuinely wasn’t feasible. The neck of the caliper to the mounting holes is 13.9mm, or 10.9mm after the modifications I had made. The knuckle side is 16.1mm. Well, the knuckle is hardened steel and the caliper is aluminum. Isn’t aluminum weaker? So he was willing to get the caliper neck to 8.9mm thin aluminum but wouldn’t want the steel knuckle any thinner 14.1mm?
I assume that in actuality, once he looked closer, he found this project too risky and a liability for a small chump of change (they shaved the caliper for $70 to its current position), not to mention overly challenging for the payoff IE: mounting the knuckle in a machinable position. Without actual engineering and probably measure the strength of the knuckle, there’s too much guess work. I can only speculate.
So now I have 2 380mm discs, 2 M4 calipers, 2 pads (street, track), and some 1 pistons on the car for the foreseeable future.
So today I grabbed my untouch steering knuckles and put them back on the car so I could drive my car again.
Thanks for offering help. I was re-drawing my schematic to make it more digestible for you, and then I re-took the measurements right now to ensure they’re accuracy.
I took my initial measurements a year ago on the car so I didn’t even see this, but the 16.1mm of thickness that I measured on the steering knuckle is only that thick for the bolt hole. The arm itself (the arm that extends from the hub to the mounting hole for the caliper) is actually 12.9mm thin. I need about 5mm off and I would agree with my shop it’s too thin.
So in the end I’ve bought all this M4 stuff all thanks to some janky measuring I took when I was probably tired
The only way this will work now is if I convert to an M3 front. I don’t know if I have the front fender clearance though and there’s no precise measurement for the track increase.
I am sure it’s not the first time you have seen this, but it is for me. Yay? Nay?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
New shifter boot? Looks nice
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
~ 2005 330ci ZHP Silbergrau | Black cube | Leather ~
Current Mods: Akebono brake pads, Bilstein B4 Rear Shocks, Beisan Systems VANOS Rebuild, G.A.S. DISA O-ring, Morimoto fog lights, StopTech SS brake lines, Subwoofer tennis ball mod, Switchback Angel Eyes (turn signal), Zimmermann drilled rotors.
My project thread ---> http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...into-a-reality
Ohhh ok now I see what you did
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
~ 2005 330ci ZHP Silbergrau | Black cube | Leather ~
Current Mods: Akebono brake pads, Bilstein B4 Rear Shocks, Beisan Systems VANOS Rebuild, G.A.S. DISA O-ring, Morimoto fog lights, StopTech SS brake lines, Subwoofer tennis ball mod, Switchback Angel Eyes (turn signal), Zimmermann drilled rotors.
My project thread ---> http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...into-a-reality
I purchased an autofold mirror switch (with purple bottom) and autofolding M3 rep side mirrors today. Once the side mirrors arrive, I will take out the autofold motors and transplant them into my OEM M3 mirror assembly converting them into autofolding euro M3 side mirrors. I now have everything in play for a July conversion for my ZHP![]()