For Sale (SOLD): 2004 BMW 330i ZHP Performance Package 6M 58K for under $16K, autotrader

[BimmerRules!]

I would never buy a car worth more than maybe $3-$4k without an independent PPI, and I do 100% of my work myself.

Get a PPI, and definitely get the codes scanned. The dealer discouraging a PPI is a red flag, IMO. The codes will tell you what lurks beneath. You shouldn't be paying more than maybe $150 or so to have it fully wrung out, and $150 to save thousands is a deal any day of the week in my book.

I had a car I had already gotten financing for, had it PPI'ed, and found 58 stored codes, bad maf, bad cat, and cracked wheels....none of which the seller disclosed and/or knew about to begin with.

Just my 0.02 - always CYA

Paul

Paul - thanks for sharing that info on the codes. I am hoping that if it is from the dealer, all these things would have been fixed before they turn around and sell it.

I don't know about code scanning and wonder if the scanning is a simple process that can be done at the seller's place itself or would it require hooking the car up with any special equipment. I ask because I assumed I could take a mechanic to the car to get it inspected and so this is something that I to keep in mind especially if the seller is not a dealer.

[zj96sc]

It requires special equipment, either an autologic or GT1 I believe. Any BMW dealership or BMW-specific indie shop will have one or the other. Takes like 10 seconds, but some dealers will charge you a 1/2 hour of labor to do it. I've paid $70 for it before, on top of the PPI...but like i said before, this is money I'm comfortable spending.

[aurelius]

It requires special equipment, either an autologic or GT1 I believe.

To do a proper scan, that's correct. My indie mechanic charges for that separately. Has something to do with the way he pays Autologic.

Bear in mind the presence of codes does not necessarily indicate trouble.

[kayger12]

I would never buy a car worth more than maybe $3-$4k without an independent PPI, and I do 100% of my work myself.

Get a PPI, and definitely get the codes scanned. The dealer discouraging a PPI is a red flag, IMO. The codes will tell you what lurks beneath. You shouldn't be paying more than maybe $150 or so to have it fully wrung out, and $150 to save thousands is a deal any day of the week in my book.

I had a car I had already gotten financing for, had it PPI'ed, and found 58 stored codes, bad maf, bad cat, and cracked wheels....none of which the seller disclosed and/or knew about to begin with.

Just my 0.02 - always CYA

Paul

+1 Big Time. Great advice in this post.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[GreenFrog]

So what happened? Did you find these codes after you purchased the car? I'm pretty much at a point where I have financing in set and I'm going to pick the car up tomorrow. The dealership is giving me a 2-month/2500 mile warranty (whichever comes first), so if I find some codes or whatnot with the car AFTER I buy it, am I entitled to ask the dealership to fix them?

I would never buy a car worth more than maybe $3-$4k without an independent PPI, and I do 100% of my work myself.

Get a PPI, and definitely get the codes scanned. The dealer discouraging a PPI is a red flag, IMO. The codes will tell you what lurks beneath. You shouldn't be paying more than maybe $150 or so to have it fully wrung out, and $150 to save thousands is a deal any day of the week in my book.

I had a car I had already gotten financing for, had it PPI'ed, and found 58 stored codes, bad maf, bad cat, and cracked wheels....none of which the seller disclosed and/or knew about to begin with.

Just my 0.02 - always CYA

Paul

[aurelius]

Ask the dealer to scan for fault codes and give you the print out. Request this before the deal is done.

^^^

Once you sign on the dotted line, they are relieved of further obligation.

[zj96sc]

Just ask them to hook it up to their computer before and show you the code results you hand over the financing. If they ask for 1 hour or a 1/2 hour of labor, pay it.

If they resist, that would be enough for me to walk away from the deal. You can give the financing back to the bank. The dealer should be eager for the opportunity to prove the condition of the car to you - nothing else.

As was mentioned, the simple existence of a code is not an indicator of current trouble, but I wouldn't pay for a car without knowing what's stored.

edit: don't get blinded by the opportunity to close the deal in just a few hours - remain objective and don't let emotions rule the day. there are tons of ZHPs out there. if this one is busted, walk away.

[BimmerRules!]

It requires special equipment, either an autologic or GT1 I believe. Any BMW dealership or BMW-specific indie shop will have one or the other. Takes like 10 seconds, but some dealers will charge you a 1/2 hour of labor to do it. I've paid $70 for it before, on top of the PPI...but like i said before, this is money I'm comfortable spending.

To do a proper scan, that's correct. My indie mechanic charges for that separately. Has something to do with the way he pays Autologic.

Bear in mind the presence of codes does not necessarily indicate trouble.

Thank you for these nuggets! Will certainly bear this in mind as I search.