Here are some additional tips. I didn't want to lose my flashlight. Plus as others have mentioned the BMW cig adaptor is NLA. Sure you can build your own or use this option.
I added a second cig adaptor inside the glovebox, leaving the flashlight in place.
My first thought was to use the circuit for the flashlight. The glovebox light and the flashlight are powered by fuse 52. While the glovebox light is switched based upon the door lock status and timer, the circuit itself is always hot. So you can not tap into fuse 52 and get the same functionality described above. Your adaptor will always have power and will cause some battery drain.
Next I simply used a open slot on the top row of fuses. My understanding is the top row are all switched. The bottom row is always hot. I used fuse 13 (rollover protection) since it is unused in non convertibles. This worked fine but it required the key to be in the acc or run position.
So my final setup was to tap the hot wire feeding the flashlight. It is the green/red wire and goes to the bottom pin.
So my Bluetooth solution is as follows. Note my car already had an aux in connector.
Bluetooth adaptor listed above $10
Wire tap $2
Cig lighter $5
Dual port USB cig light adaptor $20
I opted for a dual port adaptor so I could run a Lighting cable to the ashtray to provide iPhone charging. The Bluetooth adaptor and charging cable both power up when the doors are unlocked. They stay powered while the car is running. If you turn off the car and lock the doors the power stops. If you turn off the car and leave it unlocked the power shuts down after 15 min.
t.
Last edited by tkundhi; 09-28-2014 at 05:44 AM.
^pictures?
Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.
Yes...
Modification ThreadOriginal Car: Silver Grey on Grey, A/T (1 of 186)
As it sits: Silver Grey on Black, M/T (1 of 51)European Auto Source TechInstagram: @CarbonZHP
Pics this weekend.
OK, here are the pics. I pulled the glovebox and took pics of the wiring also.
First, there is a correction on the power source. The wire is red/green.
Ground, right side, near the body of the car. Use a small drill bit and the a self threading sheet metal screw.
New cig lighter in glove box. It has a low profile 2 USB charger installed. Bluetooth adaptor is in top slot. That is a standard audio cable coming out of it that goes to my aux input. The second is a standard USB to Lighting cable.
Audio cable going into aux input. Aux input was installed in ashtray by one of the previous owners. I left it there in case I was to connect another source. It is a nice clean install spot.
Other end of the Lighting cable. Also fed through the ashtray.
Everything fits nicely in the ashtray.
The ashtray closes. Here is a pic of music streaming from the iPhone. You have to trust me that it works and sounds good.
HTH someone.
t.
A touch off topic, but does anyone have experience with this bad boy: http://www.amazon.com/AirEnabler-Ada...rplay+receiver
?
That looks awesome for any mobile device that can airplay. Let's hope the costs come down some.
--Trevor--
Vancouver, BC
I have no direct experience with it. But it appears to setup an open wifi connection. Not sure I'd do that. At home I looks like it can be a client to your existing WiFi network. It is an interesting concept and may have some additional value for some folks but seems like overkill for music in your car.
If you decide to go with it, please share your experience.
t.
For those who bought that $10 USB bluetooth audio receiver, how is your sound quality? Now that I've used it for a couple months and I experimented by switching back to the audio cable, I'm feeling that bass is slightly more full using wire vs bluetooth. I know our HK systems are not on par with some of the non-optional systems in other vehicles, but switching back to wire made my crappy HK system sound a bit more decent. LOL. I think the change in sound quality from this bluetooth to wire is marginal but you do notice it in the super deep bass...it's not as thuddy. Let me know guys!
--Trevor--
Vancouver, BC