Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1301
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    22841
    Posts
    9,922
    Started today on the csb and guibo. Pic below of the old parts.

    Guibo is cracked pretty bad. Csb was torn and just barely hanging on. Bearing inside of it was dry as well




    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  2. #1302
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    22841
    Posts
    9,922
    New csb is installed as well as the guibo and back together it goes.

    Not a terrible diy considering I didn't remove the exhaust.



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  3. #1303
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    6,847
    Impressive without exhaust removal!

  4. #1304
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    22841
    Posts
    9,922
    Quote Originally Posted by derbo View Post
    Impressive without exhaust removal!
    Man I didn't really want to remove it. Mostly because of the nuts that hold the headers to the exhaust. I knew they were going to snap and would require drilling them out.

    Also took the vehicle for a drive and the vibration is now gone.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  5. #1305
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    18,064
    Nice!

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Randeaux/Rando/John/jr - '06 Cic ZHP; Southern California
    "ZHP or not, I still like you"


    ZHP Performance Package, Cold Weather Package, Leather, Jet Black/Black/BlackCube, NAV, Anthracite Black "my individual" interior trim
    ESS Stage 1 Twin Screw Supercharger, Sprint Booster, BMW Perf Intake, Magnaflow Exhaust, Dinan TB & STEP S/W, UCC Sway Bars, Apex EC-7 18x8.5 ET38
    Suspension: AST 44100 dampers, Bimmerworld front adjustable end links, Swift springs (8K front, 10K rear), Vorshlag camber plates
    Dynavin D99+, Hardwire V1 (w/V1 Connection), BSW Stage 1 Speakers, Kicker Amp/Subwoofer
    BMW Performance Strut Brace, Orion V2 Angel Eyes, No-holes License Plate, SMG Paddle Shift Mod, Besian VANOS, Gold DISA, Fan Delete, M3 Side Mirrors
    Note: Actual car no longer resembles signature picture

  6. #1306
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Just west of Boston, MA
    Posts
    111
    Great Job!

    You have got to let us know what the trick is to removing the entire driveshaft without removing the exhaust. I also have an increasingly worsening driveline vibration and am planning to do a transmission filter and fluid service (auto), and replacing the guibo and CSB. My header to exhaust bolts and nuts are also really rusted and would probably have to be cut and drilled out. Not having to remove the exhaust could shave hours off of this job and also save on $$ replacing bolts, nuts, and gaskets. The pictures of your old CSB also makes me terrified that mine looks the same. The drive shaft must have real been flopping around under the car.
    Steve,
    2004 330i zhp
    2009 X3
    2013 X1 35i M-Sport

  7. #1307
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    22841
    Posts
    9,922
    Quote Originally Posted by daytona90t View Post
    Great Job!

    You have got to let us know what the trick is to removing the entire driveshaft without removing the exhaust. I also have an increasingly worsening driveline vibration and am planning to do a transmission filter and fluid service (auto), and replacing the guibo and CSB. My header to exhaust bolts and nuts are also really rusted and would probably have to be cut and drilled out. Not having to remove the exhaust could shave hours off of this job and also save on $$ replacing bolts, nuts, and gaskets. The pictures of your old CSB also makes me terrified that mine looks the same. The drive shaft must have real been flopping around under the car.
    For the exhaust, I just removed it from all the hangers and dropped it down enough to be able to remove the heatshield and driveshaft. There was enough flex so I was not worried about cracking any welds.

    As far as the csb, it got progressively worse over time. Pretty sure the long road trip I took just made it worse.

    I was thinking to take the car to an exhaust shop and have them remove/replace the studs. Would save some time but not sure of the cost of having it done.

    His - 2004 Imola Red / Alcantara 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

    Her's - 2005 Black Sapphire Metallic / Black Leather 330i | 6MT | ZHP |

  8. #1308
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    To get the header bolts off, you just need to heat the crap out of them until they turn red. They'll come right off.
    If one of the studs break, you can press it out with a big C clamp and a socket. Theyre just pressed in. No need to drill out.
    You'll get sticker shock if you buy the nuts and bolts from the dealer.., around $50 or so but the nuts are copper infused to help keep them from seizing. Use plenty of anti-seize compound and they'll come right off the next time you need to remove the exhaust system.
    I used heat on both my exhaust and San's exhaust when we put my TSE3 on it. The nuts came right off. The threads were rusted off my bolts so I had to replace but San's were still in good shape so we didn't need to replace. We just put it back together with some copper based anti- seize and new gaskets and it was GTG
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

  9. #1309
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    To get the header bolts off, you just need to heat the crap out of them until they turn red. They'll come right off.
    If one of the studs break, you can press it out with a big C clamp and a socket. Theyre just pressed in. No need to drill out.
    You'll get sticker shock if you buy the nuts and bolts from the dealer.., around $50 or so but the nuts are copper infused to help keep them from seizing. Use plenty of anti-seize compound and they'll come right off the next time you need to remove the exhaust system.
    I used heat on both my exhaust and San's exhaust when we put my TSE3 on it. The nuts came right off. The threads were rusted off my bolts so I had to replace but San's were still in good shape so we didn't need to replace. We just put it back together with some copper based anti- seize and new gaskets and it was GTG
    It's already been a year since we swapped exhausts. Time sure does fly


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    2006 Coupe | Black Sapphire Metallic | Natural Brown | Gruppe M Intake | Corsa TSE3 | Michelin PSS on Apex ARC-8 | Koni Yellows |

  10. #1310
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Charleston SC
    Posts
    6,149
    I was thinking the same thing
    Dinan CAI &Throttle body, ESS Tuning TS2, Bimmerbrakes gen3 headers, UUC SSK & DSSR. Achilles oil pump, VAC oil pan baffle
    M3 Motor mounts, UUC Trans mounts, Modified clutch style LSD 3.15, TMS front subframe reinforcement, Koni Yellow sports,
    H&R sport springs,
    UUC sway bars, BMW Perf. Rotors, UUC SS brake lines, Hawk HPS pads, CSL replica wheels,
    Rotora strut bar, FXR HID conversion, M3 Mirror conversion, BSW stage 1 speakers

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