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Thread: Leaky Fuel Injector

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Leaky Fuel Injector

    A while back, I posted that I have been having warm start up issues. Namely, when I start the car for the first time of the day everything is fine. However, after the car is driven then turned off and sits for over 30 minutes it does not start on the first crank. It starts on the second attempt, idles rough, I hit the gas and everything is perfect.

    I tried a plethera of fixes to include: Clean ICV, Clean throttle body, Check DISA, Replace all plugs, Vanos rebuild, Intake boot replace with silicon Stett boots, CCV and all affiliated hose replace, Fuel filter replace and Fuel pump and sender replace. None of this cured the issue.

    I am now 90% sure it is a leaky fuel injector. I think what is happening is that the car runs then is turned off and there is a very slow fuel injector leak which is causing the difficult restart. Then when the car sits over night all the gas from the leak evaporates and there is no trouble on the first start of the day.

    My question is does any one have a detailed description on how to pull the fuel rail with the injectors still attached to determine which injector(s) is/are leaking? Or is there another way to determine which injuector is leaking without pulling the rail?

  2. #2
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    If your suspecting an injector leak, it's best to pull all of them and service each one.

    In order to access them, first pull your fuel pump fuse and run the car til it dies. Then you'll need to get all the basic stuff out of the way and remove the injector harness, which is quite a pain in the arse. Once you've exposed the rail in it's entirety, there are two 10mm nuts and nothing more. Leave the clips that hold the injectors to the rails and give them a tug. Don't fear them. They won't break and the rail won't bend. Now position them in a low plastic container to catch any gas that remains in the line. Pull the clips and remove the injectors. You are now ready to service them with an appropriate kit or send them off to be professionally refurbished.
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  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply, what type of kit are you talking about. Is the kit a DIY?

  4. #4
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    This diy....wow. Adding to my list.

    http://%3cbr%3ewww.bimmerfest.com/fo...d.php?t=571302
    "Flame suit NOT REQUIRED!!!"
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs

  5. #5
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    Dane, you are the man, just what I was looking for. Is there a "test" to determine which injector is leaking?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    I'm sure there is. I will hunt around. I tell you....I'm pretty confident that I could swap new injectors in...with that DIY though.
    "Flame suit NOT REQUIRED!!!"
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Read through this thread as well.

    http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...t=823859&mid=0
    "Flame suit NOT REQUIRED!!!"
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs

  8. #8
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    Thank you again, my G. That second thread is exactly my problem to a T. I will be buying new rings and following these threads this weekend.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Indiana
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    Have you tried a fuel pressure test?

    The fuel pressure should stay within a few psi for 30 minutes or more after the car is turned off.

    Some additional troubleshooting info:

    http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/05/38/45
    Complaint: starting problems
    - Run engine briefly at idle speed and switch off.
    - Note down measured value while engine is stopped.
    - Read off measured value again after approx. 20 to 30 minutes while engine is stopped.

    Changing Fuel Injectors:
    http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/04/55
    http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/09/80/00

    You might consider getting your injectors cleaned:
    http://www.injectorrx.com/
    Last edited by shanneba; 04-18-2012 at 02:51 AM. Reason: Added link to injector cleaning

  10. #10
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    Thank you shanneba. Good stuff. First thing this morning I'm going to start the car and spray some carp cleaner at the injectors and see if I get any idle bounce. If nothing I may do compression test.

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