The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

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Originally Posted by Prestovie

So something weird just happened a minute ago, went to a Shell gas station to fill up about a half tank. 93 Octane as usual(no 91 available), but after 30 seconds the meter clicked stopping it at 4 or so gallons? Got back in my car and she's only a little over 3/4 full, the handle for the gas was still depressed so it's not like I clicked it to stop. Any ideas? Gas station fluke or something with my car?


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This happened on my 325 M56 ALL the time. It was so annoying. Never had any other issues.

I've never experienced this on my zhp. Yet.

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Originally Posted by Prestovie

So something weird just happened a minute ago, went to a Shell gas station to fill up about a half tank. 93 Octane as usual(no 91 available), but after 30 seconds the meter clicked stopping it at 4 or so gallons? Got back in my car and she's only a little over 3/4 full, the handle for the gas was still depressed so it's not like I clicked it to stop. Any ideas? Gas station fluke or something with my car?


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Usually need to pull the nozzle out an inch or so and then it'll flow fine

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Originally Posted by 704sw

Just my opinion but I think Silver Grey looks best with the sedan's black trim and RCR tails.

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My Car's Twin: Owner @Dus_ (@punyemas_autosport)

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/y...46/LVKJWvk.jpg


http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/y...46/eT6U6iL.jpg

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Originally Posted by iya_e46

My Car's Twin: Owner @Dus_ (@punyemas_autosport)

http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/y...46/LVKJWvk.jpg


http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/y...46/eT6U6iL.jpg

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Reminds me of Eli's (mimalmo) car. Where has he been?

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Originally Posted by ZHPizza

Usually need to pull the nozzle out an inch or so and then it'll flow fine

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Not so sure about this... my 325 had this happen all the time at different pumps. Something somewhere wore out.

It was my dad's car, first owner. He never experienced. By the time the car got to me, it did it a lot. I only had it two years. Never figured out what or why. I always figured it was related to the SULEV system.

For those of you that have gotten their brake lines replaced recently (both front and rear) with stainless steel ones how much labor were you charged by your indy? My mechanic wants to charge me around 4 hours of labor. It seemed a little high so I wanted to check. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by anandoc

For those of you that have gotten their brake lines replaced recently (both front and rear) with stainless steel ones how much labor were you charged by your indy? My mechanic wants to charge me around 4 hours of labor. It seemed a little high so I wanted to check. Thanks!

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That is VERY excessive. All the lines (if you know what you're doing) can be done in less than an hour if you're moving quickly. Bleeding is done while you replace them, so that doesn't tack on much time.

I would say they shouldn't be charging you more than 2 hours, but they're probably going by "book time". Ugh.

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Originally Posted by az3579

That is VERY excessive. All the lines (if you know what you're doing) can be done in less than an hour if you're moving quickly. Bleeding is done while you replace them, so that doesn't tack on much time.

I would say they shouldn't be charging you more than 2 hours, but they're probably going by "book time". Ugh.

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Thanks BP. I know they are charging me 'book time' :(

We need to have a US North-East + Canada maintenance day!

I've never done that before and I'm pretty sure I could do it in 3 hours or less...

4 hrs just to change brake lines seems excesssive, especially when you have access to a lift.


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Originally Posted by cakM3

4 hrs just to change brake lines seems excesssive, especially when you have access to a lift.


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Thanks Charlie. Another shop I called quoted me around $800 for replacing pads, rotors and lines!! Unfortunately, living in a condo and not having access to a garage means you end up paying a shop for doing all this easy work :(

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Originally Posted by anandoc

Thanks Charlie. Another shop I called quoted me around $800 for replacing pads, rotors and lines!! Unfortunately, living in a condo and not having access to a garage means you end up paying a shop for doing all this easy work :(

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That's what "phoning a friend" is for. :)
Got anyone that lives close enough to you?

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Originally Posted by az3579

That's what "phoning a friend" is for. :)
Got anyone that lives close enough to you?

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Wanna drive up to Toronto? ;) I can provide free lodging, food and beer :)

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Originally Posted by anandoc

Wanna drive up to Toronto? ;) I can provide free lodging, food and beer :)

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I'll be at Calabogie again this year... perhaps I can take an extra 1 or 2 vacation days and head over after if you're willing to wait 'till July. Unfortunately, this doesn't solve your "workspace" issue. lol

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Originally Posted by az3579

I'll be at Calabogie again this year... perhaps I can take an extra 1 or 2 vacation days and head over after if you're willing to wait 'till July. Unfortunately, this doesn't solve your "workspace" issue. lol

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LOL - thanks for the offer but I think I will get it done and out of the way. But you are absolutely welcome to come down to Toronto! What days are you coming to Calabogie?

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Originally Posted by anandoc

LOL - thanks for the offer but I think I will get it done and out of the way. But you are absolutely welcome to come down to Toronto! What days are you coming to Calabogie?

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I haven't officially registered yet, but if I register for Calabogie, I'll be there the weekend of July 15-16, with the day before and after used for travelling.
I haven't decided between Calabogie or Mont-Tremblant at this point. Tremblant is later in the month in July.

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Originally Posted by az3579

I haven't officially registered yet, but if I register for Calabogie, I'll be there the weekend of July 15-16, with the day before and after used for travelling.
I haven't decided between Calabogie or Mont-Tremblant at this point. Tremblant is later in the month in July.

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Cool. I will check with Slater, Kakashi169 and Ayan to see if we want to have a quick meet-up there. Drag Charlie along with you :)

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Originally Posted by anandoc

Thanks Charlie. Another shop I called quoted me around $800 for replacing pads, rotors and lines!! Unfortunately, living in a condo and not having access to a garage means you end up paying a shop for doing all this easy work :(

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I know a guy out in Picton that could do this on his lunch break if you split the cost of a quickjack with him...

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Originally Posted by anandoc

Thanks Charlie. Another shop I called quoted me around $800 for replacing pads, rotors and lines!! Unfortunately, living in a condo and not having access to a garage means you end up paying a shop for doing all this easy work :(

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dude, when i lived in an apartment building with underground parking, i did work on my car in my parking spot. :) i would roll my toolbox out of my apartment, down the hallway, into the elevator, and then out at garage level. :) did that for two years!

i'd be up for helping with the brakes, but scheduling is going to be hard. i'm basically full up on weekends until mid-june!

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Originally Posted by anandoc

Cool. I will check with Slater, Kakashi169 and Ayan to see if we want to have a quick meet-up there. Drag Charlie along with you :)

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that would be awesome, hopefully it is not the 15th as i'm away then.

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Originally Posted by ZHPizza

I know a guy out in Picton that could do this on his lunch break if you split the cost of a quickjack with him...

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hey, meow that's a good idea... ;)

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Originally Posted by ZHPizza

I know a guy out in Picton that could do this on his lunch break if you split the cost of a quickjack with him...

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LOL! That guy already has his hands full!! Besides he is helping me a lot with other stuff. Pics to follow soon. But the quickjack idea is interesting. Ayan and I were thinking along the same lines when I was in Ottawa. He wanted to install a quickjack in his garage and wanted to split the price for it. I would have unlimited access to it in exchange.

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Originally Posted by slater

dude, when i lived in an apartment building with underground parking, i did work on my car in my parking spot. :) i would roll my toolbox out of my apartment, down the hallway, into the elevator, and then out at garage level. :) did that for two years!

i'd be up for helping with the brakes, but scheduling is going to be hard. i'm basically full up on weekends until mid-june!

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Dude, you are crazy for rolling your toolbox out of the apartment into the apartment garage for working on the car! That's some serious dedication!!

My car went in for the brake stuff this morning. I begged and plead for a more "actual hours" based pricing instead of "book pricing". We'll see how it goes...

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Originally Posted by ZHPizza

I know a guy out in Picton that could do this on his lunch break if you split the cost of a quickjack with him...

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1. I want this deal
2. My envy for that thing grows every day. I wonder how much the 3,500 lb capacity can be exceeded, it must have built in excess. The fleet of cars it would be used on are all below 3,500 lbs except for my sister's E46 330Xi which is supposedly just over 3,500 lbs.

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Originally Posted by BMWCurves

1. I want this deal
2. My envy for that thing grows every day. I wonder how much the 3,500 lb capacity can be exceeded, it must have built in excess. The fleet of cars it would be used on are all below 3,500 lbs except for my sister's E46 330Xi which is supposedly just over 3,500 lbs.

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If my text books didn't teach me wrong, they would at least have a factor of safety of 1.5...


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Originally Posted by BMWCurves

1. I want this deal
2. My envy for that thing grows every day. I wonder how much the 3,500 lb capacity can be exceeded, it must have built in excess. The fleet of cars it would be used on are all below 3,500 lbs except for my sister's E46 330Xi which is supposedly just over 3,500 lbs.

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Originally Posted by san

If my text books didn't teach me wrong, they would at least have a factor of safety of 1.5...

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Yep, that's what's printed in all the ME textbooks -- and for a lifting device where failure = user death, I'd say they designed with at least 3.0 in mind.

Based on what I saw during my research of their product and from using it in my garage, this is my personal impressions for the 3500 model:

3500 lbs = rated max to maintain factor of safety

4000 lbs = no worries, I'd get under it

5000 lbs = I don't know that the hydraulics could lift it unless it was a taller vehicle so you had a good head start (the force required from the hydraulic piston is reduced as the lift extends--hardest lift would be from fully collapsed). I'd probably still get under it (with my jack stand safeties in place).

6000 lbs = I'd change the tires as long as there were safeties in place. Not getting under that, though.

10000 lbs = Still won't collapse, but sure as hell won't lift. I'm not getting under it and would prefer not to stand next to it. Y'all crazy.

Edit: What I mean when I reference my jack stand safeties. I don't get under the car without them, not because I think it's going to collapse ever, but because it takes 10 seconds and adds peace of mind.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...fd8c359559.jpg

What's the downside of running winter tires year round? I bought the 20"s with winter pirellis but it rarely snows or even gets that cold in my area. I really hate the 17s i have with minimal tread left.


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Originally Posted by hcbeck2689

What's the downside of running winter tires year round? I bought the 20"s with winter pirellis but it rarely snows or even gets that cold in my area. I really hate the 17s i have with minimal tread left.


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Faster tread wear and decreased performance. I personally can't get my winters off fast enough.
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tread...res-year-round

My guess would be poor grip compared to summer/all season tires and higher tread wear rate in warmer temps.

EDIT: Patrick took the words right out of my fingertips.

Should I just keep them on and let them wear. I'm guessing they will still last a while and then i can replace with some nice all seasons like contidws06


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Cornering traction will be diminished, possibly handling/braking in rain. I wouldn't do it myself.

PS: I can't load that Bridgestone page.

We ran Blizzacks on the 135 until August one year while waiting for custom wheels to be built. It really wasn't bad at all and that car has a lot of HP

Still getting a vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed (after new wheels and road force balance). What to check next? Wheel bearings? Tie rods?

Didn't you have spacers? Or have those been removed?

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Originally Posted by 704sw

Still getting a vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed (after new wheels and road force balance). What to check next? Wheel bearings? Tie rods?

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Those might be worth a check.

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Originally Posted by BMWCurves

Didn't you have spacers? Or have those been removed?

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Didn't use any on the new wheels. It's a little better than the before, but it's still there. Plus steering is a bit twitchy, but not because of the Super Sports. It'll pull a bit when braking.

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Originally Posted by holyc0w

Those might be worth a check.

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Copy that. I didn't have enough to do today or anything [emoji854]

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Originally Posted by 704sw

Still getting a vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed (after new wheels and road force balance). What to check next? Wheel bearings? Tie rods?

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Let me know when you figure it out. I have a slight wobble after new pads, rotors, tie rods, CA'a, CAB's, rack, wheels and tires, also road force balanced. Maybe you're in the same boat and I can learn something too.

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Originally Posted by 704sw

Still getting a vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed (after new wheels and road force balance). What to check next? Wheel bearings? Tie rods?

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Let me drive the car for a day. She just needs to get sideways a bit.

This is a photo of my aftermarket lift pad sitting on my new Harbor Freight jack. Is the pad high enough?
Attachment 29875

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Originally Posted by Dual

This is a photo of my aftermarket lift pad sitting on my new Harbor Freight jack. Is the pad high enough?
Attachment 29875

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That should be fine given that the plastic lift pad on the car sticks down a bit.

If you go to lift it and the metal ridge on the jack plate starts digging into the frame, then I would like to change my answer to "no."

Thinking of adding a round plywood spacer under the lift pad

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Originally Posted by Dual

Thinking of adding a round plywood spacer under the lift pad

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Hockey pucks work great and are very strong!!

Who was it on here that cut a hockey puck into that shape... slater?