yep... and they're not expensive, like $50USD for an OEM one.Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
my list looks nice and short - which is good because the to-do list for the estoril coupe is looong!! and i'm also working on the tank... :)
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yep... and they're not expensive, like $50USD for an OEM one.Quote:
Originally Posted by cakM3
my list looks nice and short - which is good because the to-do list for the estoril coupe is looong!! and i'm also working on the tank... :)
Thanks for the updates, Peter. It's always nice to know how these sorts of maintenance/modifications hold up over time and in combination with one another.
installed:
- new lemförder front swaybar endlinks
- new rear headlight leveler sensor arm
- new rear lower spring pads
- new zimmermann coated rotors
- stoptech sport pads
i bedded them in, but the intial feel is quite soft compared to the PBR pads i had on before. not crazy about that. otherwise they feel good, stopping power is decent (PBR pads were good too).
14hr road trip over the last two days. car was great, but i think my fuel pump is dying - more than 25% throttle produces a bit of an 'electric drill' sound from under the rear seat. ordering a new one this week.
I will be replacing one today as well. It finally decided to just die.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
are you using a VDO/Siemens unit?Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Correct. I used it on my imola sedan and had no issues with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
Also added the M3 fuel pump fixture since it was cheap.
M3 fuel pump fixture...? do tell!Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
Its a baffle to keep the fuel from sloshing away from the pickup... been meaning to pickup one myself :)
cool. i'll check realoem.com for the part #.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
16112229656Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
thanks vas. i ordered:Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
- VDO/Siemens pump
- new victor reinz gasket
- M3 fuel pump baffle
Nice. I need to do the same for SketchiQuote:
Originally Posted by slater
really thinking about getting some 911 bilstein PSS rears, 6" 500lb springs, clevis top mounts and doing a rear coilover conversion.......! i'd be able to run less spring rate in the rear and it, in theory, is a lot less stress on the rear floor. hmmmmm.....
did an oil change on wednesday night, @ 249243km.
need to do tie rods and steering coupler soon, then alignment.
likely doing the fuel pump w/ M3 baffle this weekend.
:cheers
installed the new VDO fuel pump, gasket and M3 fuel pump baffle today. 250994KM.
Thought again on the stoptech street pads since you put more miles on them since install.
Pedal feel, dust? etc?
Less cold temp initial bite. But totally adequate for the street. High temp endurance is great. I bedded them with over 10 60-10 slowdowns and not once did I feel them fade or smell anything burning. Dust is light orange/brown and it takes maybe two to three fuel tank fulls to show. That was when I had my ZHP.
i think they're now called stoptech 'sport' pads, the 'street' ones are different.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vas
i need to bleed my brakes again as i think i have a bad bleeder valve - i've got air in the system. so initial pedal feel is not really accurate right now, but i can say that dusting is low and modulation is good. initial bite is decent, but again, i need to re-bleed and then i can make a good call on that.
i will say that rain performance is very good - i experienced the 'no brakes' fun when driving in the rain with my old pads (PBR) and it was not fun - it took a few hard stabs to dry out the brakes. i drove in some torrential rain last night (unfortunately several hours from my house - we didn't get any, and we need it badly!), and i had brakes every time i needed them.
kind of exciting: i placed a deposit on a 'vince' no-weld RACP (Rear Axle Carrier Panel) reinforcement kit (it's an epoxy and rivet-on install). my imola ZHP will be the first non-M car to use it, and while i don't think there will be any issues (the M3 RACP is the same as the non-M), i'm going to be the guinea pig. i'll put together a thread on the process later on - it's going to be pretty involved. vince is also thinking about making some epoxy and rivet-on rear floor 'cups' for the subframe mounts, which i will hopefully be testing as well.
unfortunately i found a small crack in my rear floor the other day by the LR subframe mount, which is what's prompting this. crappy, but at least i caught it early and it's going to be as good as possible when done. i'm also going to drop the trans and replace the clutch and flywheel (SMF conversion) at the same time. looking into buying a low-profile trans jack for the job(s).
more info (and a lot of pics) on the 'vince' kit: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=546116
i'm kind of curious if higher spring rates in the rear (with my bilstein PSS kit - even though they're not that stiff) contribute to RACP separation and cracking. moving to a true rear coilover would allow me to run much softer rates as the spring is a lot further outboard - i'd be able to use 350# springs - and i've read of quite a few M3 guys who do this for street and track use - apparently the moton setup is like this. it also would allow for more rear suspension travel.
all in all - another massive fall project for this car. i won't be getting the reinforcement kit and floor 'cups' until mid-september, so i will be driving the car sparingly until then. this means i really need to get the estoril car done soon. :) and, it means i might considering putting the full M3 rear end in from my new parts car. hmmm.....
:cheers
You recently changed all the sub frame bushings correct? So you didn't find any cracks then?
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nope. i did a full inspection last october/november when i had it apart to do the bushings/mounts/diff/etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by san
i can only imagine that it's my driving that caused it, but i'm not that hard on the car at all - no clutch dumping or smoky burnouts. ;)
How did you see the crack without pulling the subframe off?
it was right in the bend where the LR always cracks first... easy to spot with the subframe still on the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rovert
here's a pic of what it looks like cleaned up (not my car), to give you an idea of the exact location. for reference, the crack below is about 25mm.
Oh I thought the sealant would mask the crack underneath.
it's not that thick... it can mask it, depends on how much grit and grime you've got on the bottom of your car. :) mine is pretty clean because i cleaned it last fall.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rovert
That sucks Peter. At least you caught it early on. There is really no difference between the M and regular e46 other than the fact that the M cracks on the front right first since the diff mounts are basically the opposite of ours. The root of the problem lies in the spot welds between the layers. It Looks like your kit will address that perfectly by through bolting the subframe.
I'll be looking forward to your review of this too... ;)
thanks, rob!Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
you're correct that the M and non-M have the exact same RACP. the M's crack in the LR first, it seems - that is also where BMW was filling with their structural foam. i'm going to likely fill the fronts, and together with this 'vince' kit that i'm putting in, should be sufficient - this kit transfers a lot of the load to the rear frame rails and away from the main failure points. and, really - for the price, it's not bad! it's a lot of work, but then again vince put a lot of engineering work already into the kit. it should be doable in a weekend. i'm going to document the process of mine and post it up here.
and re: the spot welds - yes, those are a major problem. vince drills some of them out and replaces them with rivets, with large washers. i like that idea.
oh - and i found another SMF clutch kit! valeo was making an SMF conversion for the 5-speed cars, and now they have one for the 6-speed cars - only, they are on backorder everywhere at the moment (i guess they were popular :)). at $545, it's less than half the cost of the SPEC kit and for my basically stock-powered car, should be totally fine.
i'm planning to do the clutch + SMF and the RACP reinforcement at the same time. my new parts car has an M3 rear end and some bimmerbrake headers on it... thinking of putting those on too... ;) but i might stick with the MFactory helical LSD over the M3 one.
swap the headers, you going to like it... more torque everywhere.
yeah, i'm just concerned about the ramifications of removing the cats...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
We don't have inspection here so luckily, I don't have to worry about it... other than that there aren't any issues with the car itself by removing them
Other than the smell... And sometimes smoke.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
right... and ethical reasons. and CELs.Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
the magnaflow headers with high-flow cats look awesome, but they are like $1300USD for the pair.
ordered a rivet gun today for the upcoming project. :)
I guess you guys are too young to remember the days before catalytic converters...Quote:
Originally Posted by az3579
No smoke at all from my car. Even on the dyno
You can always add high flow cats in place of the first resonator if your conscience is bothering you.
Just keep the stock exhaust. It works well. You can change it later if you don't like the sound
OK, that's a good idea. i will be keeping the stock exhaust... but adding the BMW Performance muffler. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
ordered a valeo SMF conversion kit from fcpeuro! from what i can tell, this is a new product, and they are selling like hotcakes (attention rob! ;)).
the SMF is steel, and comes with a stock-type sprung-hub clutch disc and pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc. does not come with a pilot bearing or clutch install tool - ordered those separately. :) all told is was less than HALF the cost of the SPEC clutch and 20lb steel SMF setup!
good things are happening - it's going to be 2 months before i can really drive the car again, but man, i am excited! :cheers
Sounds good...and good price
yep! for stock-ish power levels... i think it's a great option.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sockethead
That's sick that they're selling that kit now! I couldn't find a good kit to save my life when I was searching for one a few months ago when I thought my throwout bearing was done...Quote:
Originally Posted by slater
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