The Random E46/ZHP Question Thread

Bingo, that's the info I needed. Thx derbo!

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Originally Posted by johnrando

Thanks. I'm liking $95 vs. $159. Anything that would make the ECS on $60 better? How about you buy the fancy one and sell me yours? :)

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My preference for the Schwaben was based on the fact that I thought I paid around $120 for my MityVac. I just looked it up though and I paid $85.49 on Amazon and it is now $93.66:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I were to purchase one now I'd probably choose the just extractor model:

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-L...7129213&sr=1-4

Mine does fill and extract but using it for filling then requires a dismantle and thorough cleaning so unless your going to do a bunch in a diff flush party or something it's not going to be worth the hassle.

OK. Thanks for the info! I'll likely just get that 2nd one then.

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

How many miles so far?

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15k

I had a rough start this morning. Really abnormal idle to the point I turned off the engine after 10 seconds. Started up again and same problem but it settled into normal idle after 3 seconds. It drove fine the rest of the way to work.

What's the symptoms for a hard start caused by failing fuel pump?

more like an injector or coil. Fuel pump generally just dies

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Originally Posted by ELCID86

I may need to do this on Colin's car soon. I noticed this yesterday while doing the boots.

Attachment 18732


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Does anybody have the special tool to remove the lines from the cooler?

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Originally Posted by Vas

Does anybody have the special tool to remove the lines from the cooler?

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I could stand to borrow/rent it too.


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So I'm about to install my BC Coilovers this weekend and was just wondering if you guys had any good tips or tricks on the install? It looks pretty straight forward for the most part. I also read danes diy about 100 times by now but I figure it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Ssparrow

So I'm about to install my BC Coilovers this weekend and was just wondering if you guys had any good tips or tricks on the install? It looks pretty straight forward for the most part. I also read danes diy about 100 times by now but I figure it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Thanks!

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Do you have the skinny 16mm wrench for the endlinks?

Did you get new spring pads?

Are you also replacing RSM's and FSM's?

Also....you can't do one side at a time. I recommend front, then rear.

"No flamesuit required"

For those who have done the G.A.S. DISA repair: did you also take the throttle body off and clean it? If so, was it difficult to remove and did you use a new throttle body gasket? Planning to also replace the intake boots and clean the icv "while I'm in there."

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Originally Posted by ClimRox

For those who have done the G.A.S. DISA repair: did you also take the throttle body off and clean it? If so, was it difficult to remove and did you use a new throttle body gasket? Planning to also replace the intake boots and clean the icv "while I'm in there."

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I didn't remove the throttle body when I rebuilt my DISA, though I did it on a separate occasion. You should always use a new gasket whenever possible when you remove the throttle body.

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Originally Posted by danewilson77

Do you have the skinny 16mm wrench for the endlinks?

Did you get new spring pads?

Are you also replacing RSM's and FSM's?

Also....you can't do one side at a time. I recommend front, then rear.

"No flamesuit required"

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No on the spring pads but I believe I have everything else!
The BCs come with mounts I believe. I ordered a set of rouge rsms about a month ago so I'll throw those on as well.

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by ClimRox

For those who have done the G.A.S. DISA repair: did you also take the throttle body off and clean it? If so, was it difficult to remove and did you use a new throttle body gasket? Planning to also replace the intake boots and clean the icv "while I'm in there."

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No. But I did remove and clean it on my last ZHP. I'd at least do the ICV. It's more likely more dirty.


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Originally Posted by ELCID86

No. But I did remove and clean it on my last ZHP. I'd at least do the ICV. It's more likely more dirty.


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What cleaner is used for cleaning the ICV. Doing this in the next week or so.


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Carb cleaner

"No flamesuit required"

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Originally Posted by danewilson77

Carb cleaner

"No flamesuit required"

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Yes. Though I'd think that brake part cleaner would be ok. Yes?


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Okay I was pretty sure it was carb cleaner but I was just double checking. Thanks Dane and elcid86


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I've heard brake cleaner. Who has carb cleaner any more?! :)

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

I've heard brake cleaner. Who has carb cleaner any more?! :)

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+1 :-)


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:)

"No flamesuit required"

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Originally Posted by stephenkirsh

I've heard brake cleaner. Who has carb cleaner any more?! :)

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It's still sold in stores and is still purchased often.


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Originally Posted by az3579

It's still sold in stores and is still purchased often.


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walmart supertech is 1.77 per can :D

I know, I was kinda making a joke.

I've never even driven a car with carbs.

Have you driven a car with proteins? ba DUM dum. I def remember dealing with carbs, distributors, rotor caps, etc.

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Originally Posted by johnrando

Have you driven a car with proteins? ba DUM dum. I def remember dealing with carbs, distributors, rotor caps, etc.

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:facepalm

Who let this guy in here?

lol

Hahahahaha


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Originally Posted by wsmeyer

:facepalm

Who let this guy in here?

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:caseyshrug

"No flamesuit required"

Hi guys,

Has anyone replaced the transmission linkage bushing? What are the symptoms of a bad one and at what mileage is it usually changed? Thanks!

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Originally Posted by san

Hi guys,

Has anyone replaced the transmission linkage bushing? What are the symptoms of a bad one and at what mileage is it usually changed? Thanks!

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Yes, I have. When the bushings are worn, it's a lot easier to slip in and out of gear, and there is play in the shift linkage when moving the shifter around in the gate. Personally, the easy in/out of the shift gates really suited my lazy driving style, and when I refreshed the bushing, it was a lot harder to shift smoothly. Everyone else seems to think this is better, and it is a lot firmer now that it's been replaced. I also took this time to have the BMW Performance short shift kit installed as well.

Mileage isn't a good indicator of when to replace shift bushings (since highway miles won't wear that bushing at all). You replace them when you feel the shifting to be too sloppy.

so should we just change the name of the thread to "BP answers all random E46/ZHP questions" thread?

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Originally Posted by UdubBadger

so should we just change the name of the thread to "BP answers all random E46/ZHP questions" thread?

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Until others start to give answers before I do, I say yes. :biggrin


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Originally Posted by az3579

Yes, I have. When the bushings are worn, it's a lot easier to slip in and out of gear, and there is play in the shift linkage when moving the shifter around in the gate. Personally, the easy in/out of the shift gates really suited my lazy driving style, and when I refreshed the bushing, it was a lot harder to shift smoothly. Everyone else seems to think this is better, and it is a lot firmer now that it's been replaced. I also took this time to have the BMW Performance short shift kit installed as well.

Mileage isn't a good indicator of when to replace shift bushings (since highway miles won't wear that bushing at all). You replace them when you feel the shifting to be too sloppy.

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Thanks for the info!

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Originally Posted by san

Thanks for the info!

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Short shift kit!

So I'm sick of my washer fluid constantly leaking out of my headlight washers. How hard would it be to just do a total headlight washer delete? Anyone do it? Or I was just thinking of plugging the fluid tank where the headlight washer pump is. I haven't looked at it too much though. These things piss me off so much. (Haven't worked since I've had the car).

Also, another dumb suspension question, those of you that have adjustable damping, is it common to have the settings firmer in the front, softer in the rear? Or is it all preference?

Thanks guys!

Has anyone used the EGR block off valve thing ? It's a plate that blocks the flow of the secondary air pump system so you can remove the whole pump itself. It seems like it's a cheap alternative to replacing the whole pump.


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All preference. I rock about a 3/10 in firmness both front and rear


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Originally Posted by Ssparrow

So I'm sick of my washer fluid constantly leaking out of my headlight washers. How hard would it be to just do a total headlight washer delete? Anyone do it? Or I was just thinking of plugging the fluid tank where the headlight washer pump is. I haven't looked at it too much though. These things piss me off so much. (Haven't worked since I've had the car).

Also, another dumb suspension question, those of you that have adjustable damping, is it common to have the settings firmer in the front, softer in the rear? Or is it all preference?

Thanks guys!

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Yes. Someone here has done this mod.

BP?

"No flamesuit required"

Rofl



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