Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
Amazon Link for ZHPMafia ZHP
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  1. #1361
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Silicon Valley
    Posts
    1,629
    Replaced CSB and guibo. Separating and reconnecting the driveshaft is a PITA with a regular combo wrench! Would have helped a lot to have an 18mm ratcheting box wrench. This is the first time I've replaced something twice on the ZHP, other than oil, filters, and foglight trim rings. Guibo was replaced ~30,000 miles ago, but it was bolted up wrong so maybe that's why it failed early.

    The driveshaft was not exactly as I'd expected. Based on the Pelican DIY I thought the u-join would be behind the CSB and the clamp holding the two parts together would look like this:



    But no, on my car the U-join was in front of the CSB and instead of an external clamp calling for a pipe wrench there was an 18mm bolt head hiding inside the universal joint. Maybe it's something specific to the 6-speed. Or maybe in the past somebody put my driveshaft together backwards! After all, shouldn't the U-joint be after the CSB to allow for rear suspension movement? On the other hand, assuming rear subframe bushings and diff bushings are in good shape, the rear won't move around much relative to the CSB, while the transmission and motor might move around under hard cornering with stock mounts. So maybe the U-joint should be in front of the CSB. Or I'm looking at the DIY photos backwards....

    This guy's E46 DIY video shows the U-join in front of the CSB, like mine. Maybe I took mine apart the wrong way? .
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6wlJplxMdg

    Edit2: Ah I see now this E46 Fanatics thread explains that the 5-speed driveshafts have the locking collar as shown in that guy's YouTube video, but the 6-speed driveshafts have the bolt inside the U-joint. Thread: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=892866
    Photo that looks like my driveshaft (and yes my CSB was completely separated like in that photo:

    Also my CSB was not held in by a circlip. Wondering if some previous mechanic forgot to replace it or the ZHP driveshaft simply doesn't need one.
    Last edited by LivesNearCostco; 03-24-2013 at 12:40 AM.

  2. #1362
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    3,240
    Quote Originally Posted by Sockethead View Post
    Looks good Ry!
    Quote Originally Posted by GMATT View Post
    Tips are "hot"!
    Quote Originally Posted by Mtnman View Post
    I like! Looks exactly like the tips on the 135. Which i like a lot.
    Quote Originally Posted by johnrando View Post
    @Ryan, huge difference. They look great. I'm glad you got them to fit. I'm so jealous, I really want gloss black tips.
    @William, looks awesome! I'm going to order immediately. Where did you get them from again? BTW, thanks for being the guinea pig on those.
    Quote Originally Posted by Hermes View Post
    Looks great Ryan!

    Just so you know, road crap gets stuck between them so make sure to take a rag and pull the rocks out every once in a while. Also, penetrating oil is the greatest cleaner for those things I've found because of the material they are made from doesn't really like other cleaners/detailing products.
    Quote Originally Posted by JupiterBMW View Post
    Great to see all the updates!

    William- the finished shift/e-brake boots look outstanding!

    Ry- Love the black tips, and DAYUM, that car has some gloss!!
    Quote Originally Posted by UdubBadger View Post
    Nice work Ry


    - Goin' H.A.M. Mobile
    Thanks everyone!

    Please visit my build page here, on CarDomain.

  3. #1363
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryans323i View Post
    I finally fixed my leaky PS. The culprit was a dumb hose clamp holding the hose from the reservoir to the pump. Unfortunately, it's been leaking for so long, the underneath of my car is n-a-s-t-y!

    I also received the black crome tail pipe tips from John. They didn't fit, but with a little modification we got them installed.








    Sent from my walkie talkie.
    Ry...don't know how I missed this but man those tips look incredible on Lucy!!! Absolute perfection!


    Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

  4. #1364
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Socal
    Posts
    1,643
    Totally adding this to my list for the time being till I eventually get the corsa as well






    Tony's ZHP "Wulf" '03 Silver Gray | Valentine 1 Radar Detector| Alcantara | BMW Performance Intake | F10 M5 Knob | Auto-dim Retrofit | BMW Alarm | Performance Grilles | OEM Roof Rack | Rain Light Sensor Retrofit | Eonon D5150 Head Unit | BMW OEM Clear Lens


  5. #1365
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,982
    Quote Originally Posted by LivesNearCostco View Post
    Replaced CSB and guibo. Separating and reconnecting the driveshaft is a PITA with a regular combo wrench! Would have helped a lot to have an 18mm ratcheting box wrench. This is the first time I've replaced something twice on the ZHP, other than oil, filters, and foglight trim rings. Guibo was replaced ~30,000 miles ago, but it was bolted up wrong so maybe that's why it failed early.

    The driveshaft was not exactly as I'd expected. Based on the Pelican DIY I thought the u-join would be behind the CSB and the clamp holding the two parts together would look like this:



    But no, on my car the U-join was in front of the CSB and instead of an external clamp calling for a pipe wrench there was an 18mm bolt head hiding inside the universal joint. Maybe it's something specific to the 6-speed. Or maybe in the past somebody put my driveshaft together backwards! After all, shouldn't the U-joint be after the CSB to allow for rear suspension movement? On the other hand, assuming rear subframe bushings and diff bushings are in good shape, the rear won't move around much relative to the CSB, while the transmission and motor might move around under hard cornering with stock mounts. So maybe the U-joint should be in front of the CSB. Or I'm looking at the DIY photos backwards....

    This guy's E46 DIY video shows the U-join in front of the CSB, like mine. Maybe I took mine apart the wrong way? .
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6wlJplxMdg

    Edit2: Ah I see now this E46 Fanatics thread explains that the 5-speed driveshafts have the locking collar as shown in that guy's YouTube video, but the 6-speed driveshafts have the bolt inside the U-joint. Thread: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=892866
    Photo that looks like my driveshaft (and yes my CSB was completely separated like in that photo:

    Also my CSB was not held in by a circlip. Wondering if some previous mechanic forgot to replace it or the ZHP driveshaft simply doesn't need one.
    Excellent work.
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  6. #1366
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    VA/DC
    Posts
    14,444
    Sold my son's '02 330Ci (non ZHP). He's hoping to find a 330i or maybe a 3rd Gen Acura TL.

  7. #1367
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,214
    I check tire pressures religiously and today confirmed that I have a slow leak in the right-rear tire. It's losing about 2-3 psi on 60 mile trips and ~10 psi over a few weeks. I visually inspected the tire and I didn't notice anything. Guess it's to the shop for a patch repair...
    Fuelly

  8. #1368
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Silicon Valley
    Posts
    1,629
    If you have 18" 135s, check inner rim for a small crack. Can put soapy water in a spray bottle and spray it on the tire and inner lip, look for bubbles. That's how we found a crack leaking air from one of my rear OEM wheels. Recently saw crack on inner lip of a front OEM wheel, but tire holds presure okay. Today I had Costco dismount the tire. Gonna try drilling a hole at the end of the crack and sealing it with epoxy. If that doesn't work, will get it welded like I did with the crack in the rear wheel.

  9. #1369
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    1,983
    Not mine - but I helped..(did a great portion of - my choice) swapping out the driveshaft/and complete rear/diff from ZHP coupe to the complete M3 setup (actually from an Z4 M coupe)

    Everything went great
    - Stuart


    /_________\
    OO=[][]=OO

  10. #1370
    Quote Originally Posted by BavarianZHP View Post
    I check tire pressures religiously and today confirmed that I have a slow leak in the right-rear tire. It's losing about 2-3 psi on 60 mile trips and ~10 psi over a few weeks. I visually inspected the tire and I didn't notice anything. Guess it's to the shop for a patch repair...
    If you don't find any cracks in the rim, or debris in the tire, then I'd guess Shrader (sp) valve. The valve has an o-ring on it that gets old, brittle and shrinks.

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