Nothing to add here. . .just wanted to post on page 1000 of the thread![]()
Nothing to add here. . .just wanted to post on page 1000 of the thread![]()
04 Vert/Sapphire Black/Black/Silver Cube/MT/CWP/Xenons/HK-NAV/BMW Performance Air Intake and CF Strut Bar
Emma - 2005 BMW 330ci ZHP 6MT Estorilblau Individual
Sportline 8s 18x8.5F - 18x9.5R | APEX ARC-8 18x8.5 Square | aFe Intake | 135i Brembo F/R Calipers | 26mm Front/20mm Rear Sway Bars | Z4 Mirror
M3 Dead Pedal | Lexus ES300 Yellow Fog Light Retrofit | Koni Yellows/H&R Springs | Llumar CTX 40% | Coby Tri-Stitch Wheel & Boots
Awaiting Install: M3 Wing Mirrors
Replaced ebrake shoes, springs, clasps, adjusters, everything except the cables on both sides and adjusted it all so it works well. Second time I've done this job on an e46 and actually did it right the first time. Original shoes were toast after 147k and despite adjustment it wouldn't hold on my steep driveway.
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- Marc
Ruined a perfectly good sb controller.... Called minimania and ordered 2 more. Gonna give it another go
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No problemo!
Got the parts from FCP by putting together my own package with all of the parts vs. the OEM package and saved over $30. When you go to FCP you'll see the e-brake rebuild kit for $130, and you can put this kit together yourself with different parts for $91.
Meyle Shoes
2 OEM expanding locks
2 OEM adjustment screws
1 ATE hardware kit
Total is $91 before shipping, and will be more if you choose to pay for the quicker FCP shipping. The other time I did this, I got the original BMW kit from ECS and paid the $130 (I didn't know about FCP yet!). I see/experience no difference in these parts than the original parts at all.
Here are the DIY's I followed:
Rebuild DIY: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQF6lUmDvOA
Adjustment DIY: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI5r6I3_U_k
The mistake I made the first time I did this on my 325Ci is that I assumed I could just ballpark the adjustment. Not so. Following the second video above leads to perfect adjustment the first time and you won't have to mess with it again.
Obviously, if you're rebuilding your ebrake, you should know how to remove your calipers/rotors and how to jack up the car safely.
Tips:
- put the assembly together at the top (small spring, screw adjuster) FIRST, then put it around the hub/assembly and stretch down the big screw. Once I figured this out, it took minutes to get the assemblies installed rather than struggling with that stupid small spring.
- when you remove your old assembly, leave it intact and on the ground so you can see the exact orientation of the shoes and parts.
- you don't NEED all of the parts listed above, but with high mileage everything is extremely rusty and corroded, so for a few extra dollars, you have an entirely new system.
- get a deep 10mm socket to adjust the cable screws inside the car.
- definitely use a flashlight so you can see through the lug hole to the adjustment screw once you're buttoning everything up.
- if you have studs like I do, you will have to take one stud out in order to get proper adjustment completed.
Good luck!
- Marc
Thank you, sir. This helps !
2005 IR / black / 6MT159,000 miles