What did you do for your ZHP/ BMW / MINI today? #2

[slater]

Apples and oranges, bro...

i like both of those.

[704sw]

Apples and oranges, bro...

In the poetic words of Lil’ Dicky: “that phrase don’t make no sense, why can’t fruit be compared?!”

[Prestovie]

I may be a bit biased 'bout them yellows... the city lights definitely light up the yellow bowls very nicely.

Untitled by botond.pal, on Flickr

I’m in love! Those look great, do you have a link?



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[az3579]

In the poetic words of Lil’ Dicky: “that phrase don’t make no sense, why can’t fruit be compared?!”

I’m in love! Those look great, do you have a link?



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Link to what?

[cornercarver]

difference being there are a lot more mustangs and mustang owners out in the world than bmw owners looking for an LSD option so the price is drastically lower across the board for mustangs from R&D to production which lowers costs to you.

Good point.

That said, the cost of a new LSD makes a complete M3 rear subframe swap seem like a great deal. I did a little snooping on eBay and it seems like complete assemblies (with LSD's) can be had for ~$800. Anyone here done this? -Probably a stupid question. I'll do a search...

[Prestovie]

Link to what?

Lol the yellow headlights/covers


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[704sw]

BP, I’m assuming you painted them with the Krylon stained glass paint?

[az3579]

Lol the yellow headlights/covers


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My high beam bowls are painted. The only film you can get that's yellow covers the whole headlight lens, which is more than what I wanted.

The fog lights are yellow-glass fogs with clear Lamin-X film on them.

BP, I’m assuming you painted them with the Krylon stained glass paint?

Yes, that is the product that was used on the high beam bowls.

[slater]

Good point.

That said, the cost of a new LSD makes a complete M3 rear subframe swap seem like a great deal. I did a little snooping on eBay and it seems like complete assemblies (with LSD's) can be had for ~$800. Anyone here done this? -Probably a stupid question. I'll do a search...

you can definitely go this way, but you need the driveshaft as well - you need everything from the rear end, actually - brake rotor to brake rotor. plus, once M3 diffs get up past 80K miles, they usually need a rebuild.

way less work to do the MFactory diff. time is money.

[704sw]

you can definitely go this way, but you need the driveshaft as well - you need everything from the rear end, actually - brake rotor to brake rotor. plus, once M3 diffs get up past 80K miles, they usually need a rebuild.

way less work to do the MFactory diff. time is money.

Isn’t the M3 also a 3.64? That alone would be a turn-off for me. 1st gear is already short with a 3.46, I imagine a 3.64 would essentially negate 1st altogether. I’m thinking 3.38 MFactory for myself.