Materials to Maintain Your ZHP IIIII Hand Protection IIIII Tools to Maintain Your ZHP
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Dallas
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    822

    Penetrating oil on brake rotor hold-down bolt: opinions?

    There seems to be some doubt as to whether penetrating oil will actually penetrate the threads of the hex bolt on BMW brake rotors. Ultimate goal being not to strip the bolt head upon removal attempt.

    Discuss...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,935
    Oil and heat.

    HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    6,847
    Have you seen the penetrating oil article?

    Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.

    This is what they came up with:

    Nothing: 516 lbs

    WD-40: 238 lbs;

    PB Blaster: 214 lbs;

    Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,

    Kano Kroil: 106 lbs

    (ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.

    Course ATF/Acetone mix is flammable and probably not a good idea to heat up.

    Also perhaps you can look into an Impact screwdriver too as well.


    I like liquid wrench.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Valparaiso, IN
    Posts
    3,595
    I had to drill the sob out. Not cool.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Fairfax Station, VA
    Posts
    2,806
    Impact screw driver FTW. Go by a motorcycle store or a Harbor Freight if you have one nearby, should only be $10-20.

    Bruce
    21 GMC Sierra - mine
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Valparaiso, IN
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    3,595
    Quote Originally Posted by BCS_ZHP View Post
    Impact screw driver FTW. Go by a motorcycle store or a Harbor Freight if you have one nearby, should only be $10-20.
    Didn't work for me, but I'd imagine it would for most! (I may have kinda stripped mine....)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    The Windy City
    Posts
    9,155
    I just did the same thing this weekend.

    dane suggested heat and oil, no go. had a good DIY on drilling it out manually. You start with a smaller drill bit (about 2/3 width of screw head), grind it down about a half inch so it creates a centering mark then use a drill bit about .1" smaller than the actual bolt size and give it hell. eventually you'll snap the head right off and then pull the rotor. Then you can go to town on the tail of the screw. Mine was easy to get out with some oil and pliers after that.

    hit me up if you need any help.
    Call me Seth
    CURRENT: 2016 Long Beach Blue BMW /// M2
    RETIRED: ‘15 F22 M235i | '08 E90 M3 DCT "GoinHAM3" | '04 E46 M3 6MT "WEGOHAM"
    '04 330i ZHP | '11 E82 135i | '08 E90 328xi | 07 E91 328xi SportWagon

    Quote Originally Posted by danewilson77 View Post
    If I wore panties, I'd be dropping them right now.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
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    37,935
    Quote Originally Posted by UdubBadger View Post
    I just did the same thing this weekend.

    dane suggested heat and oil, no go. had a good DIY on drilling it out manually. You start with a smaller drill bit (about 2/3 width of screw head), grind it down about a half inch so it creates a centering mark then use a drill bit about .1" smaller than the actual head and you'll snap the head right off. Then pull the rotor and you can go to town on the tail of the screw. Mine was easy to get out with some oil and pliers after that.

    hit me up if you need any help.
    Yep. That's what we had to do with Chad44's I believe. We used vice grips after the rotor hat was removed.
    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  9. Autozone.com
    Heat is your 1st line of defense. Take a torch, warm the bolt up nice. Then lean onto a wrench very gently... it's a bit of black art, you have to be able to gauge when the metal of the bolt begins to deform and you begin to strip the bolt. If this takes place, throw some PB blaster on it and give it an hour or so.
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