I thought you could only turn it down to 1, not off.Quote:
Originally Posted by orange260z
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I thought you could only turn it down to 1, not off.Quote:
Originally Posted by orange260z
sent from a galaxy
I'm pretty sure the system is fully disabled when the light on the "volume" button is off.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrando
And how do you do that?
sent from a galaxy
I forgot, I'll have to look it up. It may have been in BSW's instructions (online).
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Johnrando, did you snag the sub?
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Was going to ping you, it just arrived late yesterday.
Yep, but the screws don't seem to be in any of the diagramsQuote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
It could be on two different diagrams on RealOEM, neither are specific:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...33&hg=51&fg=35
Doesn't show the screws but indicates #13 / 07119904176 is used on the middle piece
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...32&hg=51&fg=30
All the fasteners used in this diagram are shown at the bottom and only one phillips head screw is listed, #14 which again is 07119904176
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...04176/ES14514/
Awesome, thank you. I feel like I should have been able to figure that out now hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by wsmeyer
Now to finally fix my rattling vents...
Does anyone with Koni Yellows know what adjusting the front shocks does in terms of feel?
I keep searching the countless threads out there and there's some videos of the rewards being adjusted but I guess I need something that explains it in layman's terms.
My mechanic who installed them chose the settings for me and they seem slightly softer than the stock shocks 7,000 miles ago. I have the two little plastic cap things and want to experiment but don't know where to start or what to expect.
I think they are rebound adjustable.Quote:
Originally Posted by JKO_ZHP
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well if you make it stiffer, then your car is going to feel stiffer. when going over bumps you will feel them more. if you're pushing the car around, then you will understeer since the rear might be too soft. i'd play around with it until you find some settings that you like.Quote:
Originally Posted by JKO_ZHP
If it has to do with rebound then I want them as stiff as possible.......every time I hit even a small dip on any freeway going past 60MPH, the front lip smacks the ground for a second. At this rate it'll be rubbed paper thin if not snap in half.
I'd rather have it not bounce up and down (= what soft setting does?) and just have a harsher ride but go up/down driveways slowly.
Rebound is how hard it pulls down after a bump. What you are describing is compression, which you can't adjust.Quote:
Originally Posted by JKO_ZHP
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This... compression (known as dampening) is only adjustable in the higher level Koni's (silver).Quote:
Originally Posted by Avetiso
Honestly lip spoilers, lowered suspension, and SoCal roads don't work too well together and that is why I don't run that combo. Just plan on buying a new one when yours gets chewed up. Your only other option is returning to stock springs
yeah that's why when you see one of those things you let off the gas for a second then as you're going down it, hit the throttle again. weight will shift to the back just enough to clear it.Quote:
Originally Posted by JKO_ZHP
but yeah rebound isn't going to help you with that.
splitters don't work either lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Hermes
Any idea what rear view mirrors are selling for these days?
I have a broken auto dim, so I'm wondering if i can get more money by paying $100 to fix it, or just sell it as is.
I'd get it fixed to keep the option on your car.Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
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http://www.radar-mirror.com/Mirror_Repair.html ?Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
sell it as is. it doesn't go for much on ebay. you can get them for like 75 to 150 depending on the features included with the autodim.
Anyone have personal experience with this outfit?Quote:
Originally Posted by ELCID86
What month was (is) the model year cross over for BMW? My 04 is a 08/04 production. . .that has to be pretty late for an 04?
Probably Septemberish. Mine is an 05 at 09/30Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalther
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Pretty sure mine is an 08/04 and is a model year 2005.
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/128936_x600.jpg
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES50296/
Could this part be the cause of a serious "pirate ship" clunking when braking ? It's about the only thing I didn't replace when I changed out my struts for OEM. If not this, what else ? Entire front end is new apart from sway bar bushings.
Yes - twice. Had Homelink added to my M3-style oval mirror in my Z4MC. Super-clean job, if not cheap. After I bought my ZHP I found a Homelink mirror on Ebay (convertibles had Homelink on the mirror, coupes/sedans had the kit for putting it in the overhead console). It had a bubble (and was priced appropriately) so I sent it to Scott @ radar-mirror for his $99 repair. 1-day turnaround, perfect results. The guy does great work and is FAST.Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalther
Yeah MY2005 was a little weird. The 8/04 builds were titled 2005s, but the model year changes themselves didn't occur until 09/2004 (so the 08/04 builds didn't get the MP3 radio or bluetooth assist modules for example).Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenkirsh
That is the spring seat and bottom bushing. On the other side is where the strut bearing is located. The spring seat itself shouldn't clunk unless the spring was not seated properly, more commonly its a strut bushing that clunks (did you replace the bearings?). A visual inspection should determine if the spring was installed properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by alexandre
Do all 330i/ci have the same driveshaft and input flange on the diff?
No. Input and output shafts can vary between differentials, and drive shafts can different between transmission types.Quote:
Originally Posted by TristanHunter
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thanks for the reply. So a 3.38 from an auto 330i won't swap into a 6MT zhp without swapping the input flange?Quote:
Originally Posted by Avetiso
I don't believe so.Quote:
Originally Posted by TristanHunter
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Still wondering why my needles drop when opening the door.
lolQuote:
Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy
Mine does the same thing. It's more of a slight rise, then a drop, as though the cluster was dropped. I pay it no mind. :)
Been a couple battery related threads recently...led me to check mine...
I'm assuming this is the original?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/10/udugunyz.jpg
Also, what is this plug?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/10/he7a5eny.jpg
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The plug was used for pre deliveryQuote:
Originally Posted by NoVAphotog
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Better replace your cluster.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy
jk
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So it's just "there" lolQuote:
Originally Posted by gmurphy
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Predelivery Kill switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVAphotog
Yes. Original battery.
The friendliest forum on the planet.
Thanks Dane!Quote:
Originally Posted by danewilson77
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